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Routes in Painted Walls

Artful Dodger, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straights of Magellan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windjammer T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: the Comeau's ffa webster/vogler
Page Views: 715 total · 6/month
Shared By: john strand on May 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Steep and fun climbing in a semi-secluded area. The best rock on the cliff (some say the ONLY good rock). Good gear and quality climbing. p1 is about 10+ with fixed gear and is best combined with the second pitch 11a/b a flare/groove p3 is wild finger and hand crack up a steep wall. One long rap 180' gets you back down.

Location

The most direct route involves crossing the river and going direct to the crag, an option is from covered bridge and then cutting in after about a 20 minute walk. NOT a very easy approach but not that bad

Protection

standard rack, a lot of fixed gear but this could be in bad shape (f/a 81)

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A friend and I replaced all the bolts on this route a few years back. We replaced all of the original bolts on the route, including the two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch. Apparently someone thought the original two bolt anchor atop P1 shouldn't be there, and ended up chopping it. Unfortunately, we didn't replace the pin on the crux, but it did appear as though some small aliens could be placed. We also cleaned off a fair amount of lichen, but I'm sure the climb has gotten dirty again since our foray out there. I know it doesn't see much traffic. Dec 9, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Gee, I thought this was a really good route when we did it. A variety of good hard climbing in a nice situation. Maybe the flare put people off, but it's hardly run-out at all. Maybe some one should strip the fixed gear and make it 11 R Jan 6, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The problem is, if you replaced an old rotten pin with a bolt, even if Webster said it was a good idea, some idiot would get all bent out of shape. I have always heard from others who have gotten on it that it is a dirty pile. Too bad though. It does look like an interesting piece of rock. Dec 28, 2009
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
What happened to this climb? It used to be excellent clean and well protected except for the pin. It's always been scary looking. Lack of climbers on the route I presume. With much maintenance (new bolts including where that pin is) it could return to being a popular destination. Dec 27, 2009
dave when i climbed this in 2004 the first pitch had so much moss and lichen on it I damn near logged in my drawers leading it. This summer i will get back up there to clean it, and get the crux clean. Dec 22, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
Use your judgment when leading this climb...definitely not for the faint of heart. Very loose, dirty, mossy...the only solid thing about it are the bolts: 2 on P1, 2 on P2...

On the P2 crux chimney, don't think that the fixed piton will hold a lead fall (of ANY length), because it won't. I had to aid through the chimney, and when i weighted (just 150lbs of bodyweight) the piton, it flexed quite a bit...

I wouldn't be surprised if the beta on this route changes every time it's climbed. my friend and i were pulling holds off left and right.

That said, the crux is pretty cool, and the handcrack on P3 looks awesome. Oct 14, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
This climb sometimes has a Peregrine closure- Please check Jun 24, 2008