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Routes in Henson Creek Road

Bowel Movements (proposed) WI5
Unknown 2 WI4
WI5 Pillar WI5
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Type: Ice, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 585 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A fun climb! Steep thin ice that protects adequately gets your attention from the get go. This is the crux. The angle eases towards the top. Once the angle backs off you have 3 options.

#1 and likely wisest is to build a V-thread while you still have good ice. Under that snow don't expect to find any good ice further up.

#2 (what we did) is go up runnels to the right aiming for a decent-sized shrubbery and the nut/pin anchor we left below it. Possibly only doable if there is a decent amount of snow up there after the ice peters out. For this option, bring all kinds of gear including pins but don't expect to get much in because, as you will have figured out already, the rock is less than ideal.

#3 is to continue straight up and avoid drifting right. There is a final steep section, accessed by some scrambling, that would likely be a final pitch assuming you could get to it. Accessing this upper ice looked like it would require poorly protected scrambling on crappy rock and belaying off a rock anchor requiring ingenuity to reach and build.

Rap the route with double ropes.

Location

Drive up Hensen Creed Rd past the 1st ice park to the large parking lot on the right (aka ATV staging area). There is a deep fissure/slot behind it and at the back of this slot is the climb. Scramble up poor quality snow covered rock to the base of a seemingly thin sheet of very steep ice. This is it- have fun!

Protection

Screws and rock gear.

Photos

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Jesse Morehouse
CO
  WI5
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  WI5
We saw no signs of previous ascents when we climbed this thing, and it is pretty tough to catch from the road. However, it is so close to the road I would not be surprised if had previously been climbed. If you know anything, let me know and I'll happily change the info. It was a good pitch and just seemed to deserve a name. Sep 28, 2008

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