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Cracked Actor

5.10a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 80 votes
FA: unknown
Tennessee > Leda

Description

Probably the nicest trad line at Leda. Great pro all the way makes some of the dicey moves more mentally bearable.

Start as for Free to Think, bouldering up through the juggy roof to a ledge. Move left to the obvious crack in the left face; follow this feature as it turns into a short, awkward off-width. After negotiating the off-width, continue up the thinning finger crack, saving some reserves for a juggy but pumpy roof move at the finish.

Location

Shares start with Free to Think, about 15' left of Speedway Boogie.

Protection

Mostly small to medium gear, though at least one big cam will be necessary in the off-width section. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cracked Actor 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Cracked Actor 5.10a
Gabe moving up and out
[Hide Photo] Gabe moving up and out
Me in the off-width section. Great Climb!
[Hide Photo] Me in the off-width section. Great Climb!
In the crack!
[Hide Photo] In the crack!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
 
[Hide Comment] great gear, and good rests the whole way. make sure you face the right way in the offwidth!! May 27, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
Atlanta, GA
 
[Hide Comment] You can actually forego the big stuff. Boulder up to the ledge, walk left and put a piece or two in. Climb up into the offwidth - hard to fall out - put in a piece at the top before pulling the fingerlock and getting established in the upper crack and face. Wish the upper part was about 50 feet longer. Jun 6, 2010
Chad Burdyshaw
Signal Mountain TN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] If you're short on trad gear, you can toprope this route by climbing one of the neighboring sport routes (fanfair, speedway boogie) and traversing the ledge to the anchors. Same for "Free To Think". Aug 27, 2010
highneed
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Beautiful crack, that climbs as good as she looks. The crux is finding it without top ropers that walked over from Speedway. Aug 20, 2012
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Awesome squeeze with some slightly hidden crimps that help with the ascent. Finagle your way out of the OW and clamber through the finger locks to jugs.

IMHO, this is one of the best routes at LEDA, whether trad or TR Aug 23, 2012
Tim Wheatley
Chattanooga, TN
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Heres a link to my accent! youtu.be/719TbQ_aIOE Nov 1, 2020
Glass Tupperware
Atlanta
[Hide Comment] Beta video: youtu.be/MAZLikjsss4 Apr 7, 2021