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Routes in Moose's Tooth

Ham & Eggs WI4 M4
Shaken not Stirred WI5 M5
Tooth Obsession, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b WI4 A0 PG13
Unforgiven, The WI5+ M5+ R
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jim Donini and Greg Crouch, 97
Page Views: 8,454 total, 73/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 26, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

Sweetnees up the West Face a step up from Ham & Eggs. Drop down to the true base for a full value experince or head up from the high point on the glaicer and climb an arching 5.8 ish pitch to enter the weakness. Navigate steep snow and a few cruxy sections till "the Narrows" 500-600 feet of thin technical mixed climbing. Make your plays and head on to Englishman's col. Decend via fixed anchors with double ropes.

Location

Fly in to the Route Canal Glaicer or go old school hard man style from the Mountain House.

Protection

6 - 7 Ice screws / Light rack / five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons. Double Ropes
This is a rad-looking route, but even more than Ham and Eggs, can be a total garbage chute. We aimed to do it after climbing HnE next door, but backed off after seeing a head injury evac'd out from party 1, and a separated shoulder from a second party. We headed back to the valley floor with that news... Jan 29, 2013