Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jim Donini and Greg Crouch, 97
Page Views: 9,595 total · 74/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 26, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


Sweetnees up the West Face a step up from Ham & Eggs. Drop down to the true base for a full value experince or head up from the high point on the glaicer and climb an arching 5.8 ish pitch to enter the weakness. Navigate steep snow and a few cruxy sections till "the Narrows" 500-600 feet of thin technical mixed climbing. Make your plays and head on to Englishman's col. Decend via fixed anchors with double ropes.


Fly in to the Route Canal Glaicer or go old school hard man style from the Mountain House.


6 - 7 Ice screws / Light rack / five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons. Double Ropes
This is a rad-looking route, but even more than Ham and Eggs, can be a total garbage chute. We aimed to do it after climbing HnE next door, but backed off after seeing a head injury evac'd out from party 1, and a separated shoulder from a second party. We headed back to the valley floor with that news... Jan 29, 2013