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Routes in Moose's Tooth

Ham & Eggs WI4 M4
Shaken not Stirred WI5 M5
Tooth Obsession, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b WI4 A0 PG13
Unforgiven, The WI5+ M5+ R
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jon Krakuauer / Nate Zissner
Page Views: 21,818 total, 189/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 26, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time.


Access by flying into the Route Canal Glaicer. Or go old school from the Mountain House and Hump ur ass off.


5-6 screws / light rack maybe five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons / extra material for decent slings