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Routes in Black Wave Wall

A Woman Scorned S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Wave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Controlled Burn S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fear Factor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forest Management S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab Management S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smoked Crackers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Head Crew?
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: Kat A on May 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Controlled Burn is the first bolted line just right of the wide crack system on Black Wave Wall. The first crux comes shortly off the ground. Midway up the route, there are two options for continuing to the anchors: 1) Angle left towards the crack system, with 3 bolts, this is listed as Malt (10.a) in Anderson's guide. I didn't take this line, as it looked too runout for my tastes without any supplemental gear, which I wasn't carrying; or 2) Veer right to join the second half of A Woman Scorned (10c upper section). We followed this line - the crux of this upper section involves delicate footwork and balancey moves. Overall a nice route on good granite. The bolting was well done - spaced further out on the easier sections, well protected on the crux sections.

Location

First bolted line just right of the wide crack system on Black Wave Wall. Scramble 10-15 feet up to a ledge to belay. The start is next to a 3' tall flake leaning against the wall; to start the route, we stepped on this "potato chip flake" as my friend referred it it, but very gently. Descend by rappelling from the 2 bolt anchors.

Protection

12-14 draws, plus gear for the 2 bolt anchor that is shared with the adjacent A Woman Scorned route. Supplemental gear recommended if angling left for the Malt variation.

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