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Routes in Longs Canyon Tower

Bare Knuckle Boxing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tiff, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2- PG13
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Type: Trad, Aid, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jason keith and Sam Lightner Jr (?)
Page Views: 760 total, 7/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 25, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The route begins on the north west side of the tower above the road. Find an easier way up through the lower cliffs to get to the base.

Pitch 1 = a bolt ladder with a few moves of C1 in the crack gets you to a hanging belay.
Pitch 2 = a long crack of varying size, but focussed on blue tcu's Conceivably, you could link p2 and p3, but we broke it up as we were running out of gear. Pitch 3 has some sandy free moves, so you wanna mitigate the rope drag. Its gonna be pretty hard to carry all that gear. We belayed off a drilled angle and a couple of friends about 80 feet up and just below the roof. This probably goes at 5.11, but we were pulling on our gear.
Pitch 3. From the hanging stance, we free climbed, clipping a couple bolts, on sandy and weak rock. Lots of slopey, sandy moves. Its only like 5.9 or 10a, but it is heady. After 50 or 60 feet belay from a good anchor on the ledge.
Pitch 4 = We climbed to the summit, going around the top to the east side. There is an old anchor over there. However, its like 5.4 so we just climbed it (minimal gear) and then reversed it. There is no anchor on the absolute summit as it is rotten.
From top of pitch 3, rap to pitch 1. Two 70's would actually reach the ground from here, but not two 60's.


Northwest face of the tower right above the road.


Doubles of each cam with a lot of .5 and .4 cams... a lot being like 6. A set of nuts, two sixties, lots of slings and spare biners.


Sam - Thanks for fixing up the route. Joel Irby, Evan Deis and I climbed this in freezing, snowy conditions over Thanksgiving 2015. We also stopped short of the shoulder on pitch 2, making it 3 pitches plus a top-out.

We managed to aid climb all the way to the shoulder, finding sketchy gear and making an occasional scary slab moves/mantle out of the aiders (tricky C2). We made it to the summit and back in hiking boots.

I'm curious - did you guys place the drilled angle that you used for an anchor at the top of pitch 2? If so, why did you use an angle instead of a bolt? Not criticizing, just curious.

Cheers, and thanks again,
Dave May 27, 2016
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Here is the deal with this...
Jason and I saw an anchor about 60 feet up on this tower. We decided to try the route... its a really solid bolt ladder. However, when we go on the second pitch we saw no sign that anyone had ever been there. Lots of loose rock needed to be cleaned away, no fixed anchors (unlike the first pitch), and generally soft and loose up high. We needed a couple of fixed pieces to do it. We both figure there are lots of climbers out there who could have climbed the route without our fixed gear, but it would have been out of character with the way the first pitch was done... so we guessed that the route had been abandoned after the first pitch.

If one of you did this thing years ago, good for you... give me the info and I'll change the F.A> stuff in here. However, we had to speculate that no one had been all the way up it due to the looseness, the lack of any fixed gear, and the lack of a rap station coming back to the top of the first pitch. Never the less, the first pitch was most definately climbed by someone other than us. May 25, 2008