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Routes in Irishman's Temple

"The Cleansing" T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Le Veuve Noire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+
Otto's Erotic Asphyxiation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 159 total · 1/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 24, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Eyeballed up as an all free line on good rock, I finally had the stones to have a go at her last spring. Several attempts over two seasons trundling big rocks and working free moves materialized a sweet line that someday somone with the right stuff will free. Two long pitches seperated by killer ledges, and a short third to the summit.

P1. Climb a scary looking chimney with good pro (looks much worse than it really is) to a pleasant and a gradually widening fingers to fist crack, 5.9. When this ramp blanks back down to very thin, tread lightly past dangerous flakes, up steeper ground C1 R or (5.10R TR), and onto a sweet ledge, 140' +/-.

P2. Enter the main weakness accessing the upper reaches of the tower. Thin, clean aiding in a small corner gets you almost there. Blinking down to nothing and in the interests of continuing a sweet route, I made the call and gently tapped the four beaks in to pass this short section. More clean aiding and some groveling gets you to an even better ledge and fifteen feet from the summit. This pitch is steep, and you will have trouble getting back to the belay if you do not plan ahead, A2, 130' +/-.

P3. Climb the chossy face above with good protection, 5.9, 15'.

Check around on the sweet summit, and then go back the way you came.

Location

Irishman's Temple is located on the Bench trail in between Gold Star Canyon & the Lower Monument Trail.

Protection

Doubles from grey TCUs to #4 Camalot - #6 Friend, nuts, hexes, small Loweballs, 4 Birdbeaks.

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