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Routes in West Face

Are You A God? T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Babes On Harleys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corndog T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crab Salad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Love T A3
Mesopotamia T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Moby Dick (Direct Start) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Name T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Rowins Andrews A2+
Tarzan Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Women On Mopeds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yellow Beard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yellow Jacket T A3
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Terry Andrews
Page Views: 1,196 total · 10/month
Shared By: Christopher Marks on May 24, 2008
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This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Chimney up the South Chimney unprotected to ledge and climb the finger crack up to next ledge. Climb directly up the middle of the headwall to bump up the grade to 5.9 or Traverse to far right (east) corner and ascend up good edges with great exposure.

Location

South chimney/face of crab eyes

Protection

Nuts and cams up to 3

Photos

Jason Baksh  
 
The Chimney is fun climbing and protected with a small nut and a 1" cam. My climbing partner lead the slab section and found it awesome but run out a bit. The hardest move is gaining the second ledge - using the finger crack directly above the top of the chimney. Traversing far right to gain the sweet edges is also interesting. Def. 5.7R but also fun. A long sling or two may be helpful. May 23, 2017
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.8 X
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.8 X
Great route that packs quite a variety of climbing into a relatively short distance. Don't expect much of any pro for the chimney to the ledge and the chicken head finale. Easier climbing off the last small sloping ledge but hollow holds (my partner broke off a large piece following) and pro that's already a ways a way makes it exciting. Falling from the last section would not be ideal and you'd probably mess yourself up pretty good.

Great route though that really packs in the exposure! Jan 15, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
I'm not positive, but I believe this route was identified in the Lohn guidebook as "The Arete" as a 5.7 R. Terry would know more than I. edit: Actually on the other side... I see where this line goes now! My mistake. Jun 13, 2012