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Routes in Anti-Crag

Asymmetry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Ass Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BattleAxe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Chicken Fingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Differential Equations T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Heckle and Jive T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Old Grey Mare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabid Snake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Singularity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Symmetry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Torreoncito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Duemler, Tim Roley
Page Views: 931 total, 8/month
Shared By: bio on May 20, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

P1: easy start on good pro to awkward short chimney to ledge and first bolt. Go up chimney/arete on chossy rock but easy climbing and bolts to anchor.
P2: Past 2 bolts angled traverse past low angled slab to dark black open book. The book is the crux pull buldge to top. Descent is rap from top if 70 meter rope can reach P2 belay, if not go to one of bolts on P2 then short rap to anchors and a 3rd rap to ground.

Location

To the right of DE about 15 feet.

Protection

Small to #5 cams single set, 5 quickdraws and one or two extenders.

Photos

Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
The second pitch is good, much better than the first! Sep 10, 2016
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
finally lead the second pitch ~ and i always love the first pitch. So pitch 2~it's HARD work, i threw every offwidth flare squeeze armbar chicken wing foot torque earthworm press backstep friction technique i had, and got it done, it's good and should be done more! Very awesome! Aug 12, 2013
RyanJames  
 
My number 5 BD was TOTALLY tipped out at the chimney part. I suggest a number 6 BD or a Big Bro if you want to do it safely? For me, this was one helluva spicy climb! Glad I pushed through. Jun 20, 2012
lou
lou  
Take a number five for the chimney. Chimney sucks you in to place the pro..then move out an over to bolt. Pitch two is work...takes good pro in the back of slot. Some loose stuff near the top out. Cool route. 10c imho Aug 30, 2009