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Routes in Upper Blacktail Butte

Blitzkrieg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Crackin' the Cherry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Graceland S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Muy Macho S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Trip S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Chili S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Candy Nugget S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Running Down a Dream S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tec DC-9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wild at Heart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winston S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 1,475 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on May 19, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

A nice nugget of good stone on an otherwise pretty chossy chunk of rock. A couple of thin moves getting to the first bolt, then fun limestone face climbing afterwards. A good warmup. Not quite as good as Red Chili, but almost. Watch a "x"ed loose block at the top.
The photo in Wes Gooch's guidebook shows the line going slightly left of where it actually does. Start just right of a black waterstreakish section of rock.

Location

Walk left from Power Trip on a trail. In about 50-75 yds, you'll come to another cliff. This is the second bolted route from the right.

Protection

5 bolts, two-bolt anchor w/ chains.

Photos

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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
IMO, this route is overrated. I would give it 9+/10a, but since I'm adding it, I'll use the guidebook rating of 10b. May 19, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I was a little confused as to the location of this route as well but it sounds like Nick is describing what we climbed. I thought perhaps we were doing a different climb than Rock Candy Nugget and thought it was 5.9ish but my wife, who is much shorter, thought it was 10-ish, which might be part of the cause for the discrepancy in the grade. In the Gooch guide, it is listed as having 6 bolts, adding to my confusion.

Anyone know what route is to the right? And, what is the next route to the left? Jul 24, 2008
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Fantastic warm up. Big holds throughout. 10a if you've climbed it before, but some big holds that are hidden and a mandatory traverse to the second bolt can make it a tricky onsight for the 5.10 leader. Best 5.10 (although limited competition) at BTB. Aug 26, 2014

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