Type: Sport, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 1,575 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on May 19, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A nice nugget of good stone on an otherwise pretty chossy chunk of rock. A couple of thin moves getting to the first bolt, then fun limestone face climbing afterwards. A good warmup. Not quite as good as Red Chili, but almost. Watch a "x"ed loose block at the top.
The photo in Wes Gooch's guidebook shows the line going slightly left of where it actually does. Start just right of a black waterstreakish section of rock.

Location

Walk left from Power Trip on a trail. In about 50-75 yds, you'll come to another cliff. This is the second bolted route from the right.

Protection

5 bolts, two-bolt anchor w/ chains.

Photos

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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.10b
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.10b
IMO, this route is overrated. I would give it 9+/10a, but since I'm adding it, I'll use the guidebook rating of 10b. May 19, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I was a little confused as to the location of this route as well but it sounds like Nick is describing what we climbed. I thought perhaps we were doing a different climb than Rock Candy Nugget and thought it was 5.9ish but my wife, who is much shorter, thought it was 10-ish, which might be part of the cause for the discrepancy in the grade. In the Gooch guide, it is listed as having 6 bolts, adding to my confusion.

Anyone know what route is to the right? And, what is the next route to the left? Jul 24, 2008
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Fantastic warm up. Big holds throughout. 10a if you've climbed it before, but some big holds that are hidden and a mandatory traverse to the second bolt can make it a tricky onsight for the 5.10 leader. Best 5.10 (although limited competition) at BTB. Aug 26, 2014