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Routes in (03) Wall of Dreams

Chai Tea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crescent Moon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lost Boys T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
On the Edge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sink or Swim S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stolen Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Time Bandits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turquoise Classic Thunder T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Alexander Nees
Page Views: 710 total, 6/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on May 19, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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A nice crack with great movement, TCT is the hardest trad lead at Mentmore to date, and one of the best. Only a discontinuous start and a bit of sandy rock at the base keep it from being a four-star route. Scramble up some boulders at the base of the crack to reach the small roof. Strenuous moves get you over the roof, and a combination of face climbing and finger locks takes you to the top. This route can be climbed almost entirely as a crack climb, or with a great deal of face climbing, but at least some jamming skills are probably necessary.

The crack is deep and varnished on the inside, so the gear is good. However, the soft rock at Mentmore means that long falls are NOT a good idea. Protection every body length is a good goal to shoot for.

Be aware that after heavy rain storms, some sand may have been washed into the crack. It's not a major problem, but if no one has climbed the route in a while (likely to be the case at Mentmore), it may be worthwhile to brush the crack out on a toprope before leading it.


The attractive, jagged finger crack left of Stolen Dreams, near the right end of the Wall of Dreams, and just left of an obvious pour-off. The location is also marked, as unnamed "Crack- #14", on the black+white beta map photo available on the New Side front page.

The anchor is bolted, but cannot be rappelled from. To get down, either rap off Stolen Dreams' anchor (just to the left of the topout) or take the long walk up and left to get down off the cliffs.


Trad gear from 0.5" to 1". Nuts work, but cams are better. A double set is plenty. The crack is quite deep, so four-cam units are recommended to get as much surface contact with the rock as possible. Two-bolt anchor at the top.


I don't know I waited so long to have a go at this line! From the first time I saw it I knew it was something special for this area. I found the moves to be a bit sequency, since I could only fit certain knuckles of what ended up being mostly ring and pinky mono locks. Damn my fat pointers! Also be prepared to smear blankness for about half the time, unless you have super pointy shoes that will fit in the crack. What a jamming heaven though, if you can handle the pain(a little tape might have helped...I survived without though, Veedawou teaches a climber what tape is for) The best single crack, and 5.11 in the Gallup area, IMHO. Now that I've played around on it, I can say it would be a proud lead for a 5.10 trad climber looking to up their game. Feb 10, 2012