Turquoise Classic Thunder
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in (03) Wall of Dreams
|Chai Tea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Crescent Moon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Flakes Don't Fail Me Now S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Happy Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Lost Boys T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|On the Edge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sink or Swim S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Stolen Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Time Bandits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Turquoise Classic Thunder T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||710 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Alexander Nees on May 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionA nice crack with great movement, TCT is the hardest trad lead at Mentmore to date, and one of the best. Only a discontinuous start and a bit of sandy rock at the base keep it from being a four-star route. Scramble up some boulders at the base of the crack to reach the small roof. Strenuous moves get you over the roof, and a combination of face climbing and finger locks takes you to the top. This route can be climbed almost entirely as a crack climb, or with a great deal of face climbing, but at least some jamming skills are probably necessary.
The crack is deep and varnished on the inside, so the gear is good. However, the soft rock at Mentmore means that long falls are NOT a good idea. Protection every body length is a good goal to shoot for.
Be aware that after heavy rain storms, some sand may have been washed into the crack. It's not a major problem, but if no one has climbed the route in a while (likely to be the case at Mentmore), it may be worthwhile to brush the crack out on a toprope before leading it.
LocationThe attractive, jagged finger crack left of Stolen Dreams, near the right end of the Wall of Dreams, and just left of an obvious pour-off. The location is also marked, as unnamed "Crack- #14", on the black+white beta map photo available on the New Side front page.
The anchor is bolted, but cannot be rappelled from. To get down, either rap off Stolen Dreams' anchor (just to the left of the topout) or take the long walk up and left to get down off the cliffs.