Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 786 total · 6/month
Shared By: Scott W on May 19, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This route is a laughable sandbag. I would call it 5.11c, R, A0. The very first move is the crux and has a bolt clippable at head height...it involves a one armed leap off okay feet and an okay crimp, HUGE move. For getting a PG-13 rating in one book and R in the online guide, it probably isn't too bad on lead, huge jugs to clip from, crux's are very well protected.

Location

Just right of Spooner and Fifth Force

Protection

Quick draws

Photos

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The first move can be done statically. Also, the run-out is located before clipping the 3rd bolt: a long reach to a good hold leads to good edges from which the bolt is clipped. A fall from the edges (before clipping) would be a ground fall; however the clip is not so bad. Higher up, long reaches between diminishing edges lead to a balance crux clipping the anchor. Anchor now equipped with chains (thanks, Chris). Probably feels more like .11c/d than .11b. Also, it deserves at least three stars for how good the climbing is. Jul 3, 2008
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
FA: Greg Child, Andy DeKlerk. Dec 31, 2008