Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,575 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on May 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Between the Brown Sugar Wall and Jewel of the Mild are (at least) two bolted routes that are not included in D'Antonio's 1999 guidebook. This is the left bolted line, which ascends a slopey ramp that rises up to the right. Sort of grassy, not particularly interesting, but this route does provide an easy sport lead (which are in short supply here) as well as access to setting a toprope for an Unknown 5.10a route to the right. If anyone has a route name or FA for this 5.6, pipe up and I'll amend this page accordingly.

Location

This is on the face right of the Brown Sugar Wall, left of the face with Jewel of the Mild. The start of this easy ramp is approximately the same as that of unnamed Route #94 in D'Antonio (1999), and it follows an obvious, right-trending set of seams. About 30 feet to the right of this route is the bottom of the ~5.10 route, just left of a bright green lichen patch with a crack.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. This top anchor is shared with the ~5.10 route that drops straight down the face below the anchor.

Photos

Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.6
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.6
Parties seem to like TRing this but even with directionals, an inexperienced follower could be set up for a bad pendulum in a few places. Sep 27, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Pretty much a bomb of a route. A few moves to the first bolt then walk up the grassy crack. Also of course be aware that it would be virtually impossible to rap clean this route due to the extreme diagonal. Shares an anchor with the unknown route to the right. (which is actually quite a good route and probably around 5.10). Jun 14, 2009
Mort
 
Mort  
 
Oh come on, this is a great route for the grade. Fun moves, lunch ledge, and it actually has holds. Best route for a beginner to start on in Peni. Nov 25, 2012
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
  5.6
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
  5.6
I agree with the misgivings doing this on TR, but since it isn't of the grading documented in D'Antonio, the 5.6-5.7 rating seems correct. I thought it was a fun, toy climb. Not really worth your time, but go for it if you are looking for easy (easy lead perhaps).

Walking up the grassy crack was great fun, although not challenging in the least. Sep 30, 2013
The first bolt wiggles and should be replaced with a correctly torqued long, half-inch stainless-steel sleeve bolt, such as the Powers 5-piece. (I recall that Powers has lowered the recommended installation torque to 25 foot-pounds for the half-inch 5-piece.) It protects the crux moves and is the only pro between the leader and the ground. Although this rock may seem hard on the surface, it is softer underneath, so wedge bolts (the bolts with the threads sticking out) aren't the best choice. Oct 5, 2015