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Routes in f. Cramped Face

Blockhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cramped Thumb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cramped Thumb Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Director Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Higher Than I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Loose Block T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Loose Block Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Shalestorm T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Francis DeMonterey and John Gyer (1963) (FFA)
Page Views: 399 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

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Description

P1 - Climb the nice face just left of the small corner past an old, bent pin, then move up and right to an overhang. Clear the overhang at a notch, then follow a groove to a small ledge with old pitons and the original belay. Traverse left around a corner to a better belay (#2 Camalot).

P2 - Traverse way right under the overhang to a left-facing corner and bypass the overhang using awkward moves. Follow a dirty crack up and left to the top.

Can be done in one pitch and this avoids the odd belay position. Long slings or double ropes helpful.

Location

At the face just left of a small, left-facing corner on the Cramped Thumb Face. This will be the face between the 2nd and 3rd of three small left-facing corners on this section of rock.

Protection

Standard Rack. Crux protects, but runout in easier sections.

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