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Routes in f. Cramped Face

Blockhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Cramped Thumb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Cramped Thumb Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Director Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Higher Than I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Loose Block T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Loose Block Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Shalestorm T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Francis DeMonterey and John Gyer (1963) (FFA)
Page Views: 380 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Description [Suggest Change]

P1 - Climb the nice face just left of the small corner past an old, bent pin, then move up and right to an overhang. Clear the overhang at a notch, then follow a groove to a small ledge with old pitons and the original belay. Traverse left around a corner to a better belay (#2 Camalot).

P2 - Traverse way right under the overhang to a left-facing corner and bypass the overhang using awkward moves. Follow a dirty crack up and left to the top.

Can be done in one pitch and this avoids the odd belay position. Long slings or double ropes helpful.

Location [Suggest Change]

At the face just left of a small, left-facing corner on the Cramped Thumb Face. This will be the face between the 2nd and 3rd of three small left-facing corners on this section of rock.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Rack. Crux protects, but runout in easier sections.

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