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Trad Sucker

5.11b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 30 votes
FA: Keith Moll, 1994
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Fork… > Motherlode > (1) Buckeye Buttress
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

I believe there are two ways to start. Below or on top of the large block. Either way I would stick clip the first bolt. Ascend the steep face on very positive holds. Use a combination of sidepulls and jugs to the fourth bolt. Pass a small bulge using smaller crimps and hit a large horn to the left to set the clips. If you don't see the horn than gun for a large jug on the right, just above the chains.

Location

This route is at the Buckeye Buttress. When you reach the Y in the Motherlode trail make the left. You will begin to see the cliff on your left hand side, make another left on the trail and this will put you at the Ball Scratcher arete. Follow the trail left through the large cave. The route will be on the far left side of the cave.

Protection

4 bolts and fixed chains at the top. There were also some biners up there when I did the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me clipping on Trad Sucker 5.11b
[Hide Photo] Me clipping on Trad Sucker 5.11b