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Routes in The Gate Keeper

Existence Denied S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kill the Children S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Return to Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 812 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on May 15, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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23 Opinions

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Description

This one lies on the far right side of the Gate Keeper. Start up over easy flakes to stand in the large dish at its right side. If you are tall enough you can clip the first bolt from here. Move up and right, around the dish. Traverse back to the left, above the dish; this requires a shift in balance on some very interesting holds. Continue up over the negative headwall on small edges. Like its counterpart on the left side of this face, Existence Denied finishes with a very difficult move to gain the anchor. Rappel to descend.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a/b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a/b
This gem is listed with no stars in the Mayr SoCal guidebook but found it very enjoyable. Great bolt placements and good flow will have you smiling at the chains. Much like Nelson, I didn't find much in the 10c range (especially when considering neighboring cousins), even making the chains had a solid stance. The worst of it is getting above the chains to anchor to thread & strip. Jan 25, 2016
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c
Anyone know what the route just left of this and right of Return to Hell is/goes at? Interesting climb with a hard crux after the second bolt.
On existence denied, there is probably only one .10c move - and it is to gain the anchors as the route description says. The rest is probably 10 a/b.

  • Hint* if you look at the picture that is labeled "trying to top out", there is a good right foot to the climbers right (flake/chicken head sticking out with a little chalk on it). You can use this to step up high enough to reach the anchors. Still very awkward.

Update: I just added the route between Existence Denied and Return to Hell to the site. I rated it at .11c/d based on the crux move. Mar 14, 2012