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Chick Power
V7,
Boulder,
Avg: 3.6 from 12
votes
FA: Nathanael Hansen/Jeff Russell
Colorado
> Colorado Springs
> Ute Valley Park
> S Side Area
> Main Boulder aka The…
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per
Stewart M. Green: the park has been reopened after the floods. Be careful to evaluate the rock integrity to preserve the resource and insure safety.
Description
This line is just to the right of
Floater. Start in the higher pod and go right onto a bomber crimper, then match on a single-pad edge before hucking for the lip. So classic. Once the linkup from
Pungase is complete, this would be a great finish!
Jeff and I can't remember who got it first, since the upper crimp has broken a few times in between ascents....
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Englewood, CO
colorado springs
Thoughts? Sep 26, 2011
colorado springs
colorado springs
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I know Ric Geiman (who silently got the FAs on most everything at the Valley) did not have the FA on Chick Power. Jeff and I asked him at a comp there after we completed it.
And it's called Chick Power (not Sheik Power or anything like that), because Jeff's closest attempts always came when he brought his girlfriends there.
When Jeff and I were working Chick Power as a project, there was no other method we WANTED to do other than the big throw. Send it however you want, intermediates, crazy-high heel hooks, but you won't ever do a more fun and satisfying method than dynoing for that lip!
(and remember, you're not throwing for any chickenheads up there - it's a sweet rounded edge you catch)
As for breakage, that's gotten exaggerated over the years. The crimp you throw from was never "big", but it did crumble a bit after the original FA (most likely because it's used as a foothold, and hey... it's Ute Valley). Having done it before and after breakage, I don't notice a huge difference....
I love Ute Valley, and I LOVE this problem.
Here's a beta video from my neglected blog (apparently made when I was feeling quite old but appreciative of what really matters)
misterthan.blogspot.com/200… Nov 7, 2011
Props to anyone who has sent this thing the original way, because it is burly for sure. Apr 3, 2012
Scottsdale, AZ