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Routes in Tower 143

Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Type: Aid, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: James Garrett, Pete "Big Billy" Keane, and Brad England, October '98
Page Views: 871 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on May 12, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1 - Begin with a shoulder stand from your partner or by using a somewhat sketchy fixed pin with a broken eye hole. Continue past another fixed pin to a beautiful clean crack that arcs around forming the "C-Dunt Traverse". At the end of the arc, turn a couple roof/corners on big gear. The second of these roofs is wide, awkward and very strenuous, even if you're aiding... which you will be. Continue to the notch and a two-bolt anchor. (5.9, A1, C1+)

Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to a flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)

Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)

Location

30 minute hike southeast from the Naked Lady Boulder near camp.

Protection

Two sets of cams up to 4 Camalot with an extra .5 and .75.
One #5 and #6 Camalot
A decent selection of pitons less than 1".
A couple rivet hangers.
Stick Clip? (there is a blown bathook hole on pitch three)

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