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Routes in White Wall

Dancing Girls T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face to Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard's Tail T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return of The Jodi S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Think Pink T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Where's Michael...? S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Wall, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Jacobs and Crowder
Page Views: 1,498 total, 13/month
Shared By: Justin Dansby on May 12, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start out just right of ROTJ. Small edges and smears lead up to the incredible flake hold. Mantle the flake using it and surrounding edges. Follow these edges up to sloping holds and really great climbing. Mantling the flake and the 20' sequence that follows is an incredible route for Yonah.

Location

Route is located 10' right of Return of the Jodi. This is at the White Wall which is located near the Lowers.

Protection

Easy top-rope setup from ROTJ anchors. Leading this climb would be serious. Although with micro cams it should tame it down some.
Found enough placements for gear on this one but didn't feel like the flake would hold a sling on the top right corner in a fall and thus leave one unprotected for the crux. The rest of the placements looked bomber. Feb 9, 2013
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
Late with my comment: Ben is the only person I've ever heard of who's onsighted this route ground up on lead. Impressive. May 13, 2011
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.10 PG13
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.10 PG13
Spoiler: Crimp to the horizontal, load it with small/medium gear, do some more delicate face to the flake, sling it with a 48" runner (preferably), fire the crux, gaining the flake as a foothold, dink in a tricam and/or micronut, and fire more delicate face and a fingerlock in a pod to the upper slopiness...lastly, a shared #1 Camalot with RotJ will protect the exit moves. Jun 7, 2009
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
FYI about this route. MC and I pinkpointed it on pre-placed trad gear, that's where the route name came from. It would be a real squeeze job with bolts and it had to be rap cleaned, so we put in as much small gear as we could, including one piece with a shoulder length sling on it (just above the flake). The route would be pretty much a R/X rated onsight, plus I'm sure it needs cleaning again. Jan 24, 2009