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Routes in Lonesome Buttress

Que Saudade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Remember Munter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ryan Brough und Sam Gileadi, 10 May 2008
Page Views: 87 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on May 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Remember Munter is first and foremost, an adventure route.

The first pitch is 5.5 and consists mostly of stemming moves on the outside of a flaring crack. A big fat tree awaits you at a substantial belay ledge about 33 meters up. From the tree, climb the face on the left (tricky pro) to where the seam splits a small roof (crux). Most of the holds slope, but if you're persistent you'll find a jug or really good crimp, sidepull or undercling. The pro gets a little easier, and you'll get an occasional good jam as the seam widens to a crack with some pockets. The finger locks and hand jams felt so much more secure than the face holds. The face spits you out onto a ledge that leads you to another inviting face. Once you reach the bottom, you'll notice a crack in a small dihedral that starts out as fists and finishes at tight hands. Careful with the edge of the crack as it is pretty sharp. Once you reach the top of the pedestal, you can climb the arete on the left to the top of the buttress, or for an additional challenge, you can climb the seam on the right. I decided to keep the climb moderate by climbing the arete after backing off of some loose holds around the seam. From here, you can enjoy the great views. You might be able to see the yellow slings for Que Saudade from here, but you'd have to sling the top of the pinnacle or downclimb to get to them. We built another rappel station on a tree to the southwest of the top-out. The rappel from there is 34 meters to the tree at the top of pitch 1.

For a new route, I found it to be mostly devoid of vegetation, peppered with a few patches of pesky lichen. We did our best to clean out the choss, but I bet we missed a lot. Some of the holds are loose, but they held me and the extra 10 pounds I gained over the winter. The rock is ultra sharp in some places, a feature you don't find on established routes, so enjoy the things that just aren't available to you on trade routes!

Location

Around the corner from Que Saudade, to the right (or west, if you prefer). Start in the wide crack and head for the tree mid-buttress. From there climb the seam on the left half of the buttress. A big ledge is in the middle of the second pitch, a small crack in a dihedral leads to the top of the formation. Set up a gear anchor here and then scramble down to the closest tree for an exit. Say hello to the mountain goats while you're there.

Protection

70 meter rope is required for rappel (unless you plan to bring your own webbing and rappel rings). Helmets are strongly recommended! Small selection of small to medium cams. Brassies for the seams and huge cams for the first pitch. Doubles in cams from tight hands to fists. Both anchors are slung trees.

Photos

Mulch
SLC, Utah
  5.8-
Mulch   SLC, Utah
  5.8-
Not bad. Replaced the slings on the trees. Oct 8, 2017