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Routes in The Punchbowl

Bam S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Corporate Greed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drive By Shooting S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gray Block Left (submitted as Blue Route 2) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Gray Block Right (submitted as Blue Route 1) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Let The Honeymoon Begin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lugie Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Momentary Lack of Resin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mouse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouse Almighty S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punchbown Arch (Right Arch of Cave) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Smoke on the Water S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snipe Hunter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunrise Shuffle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super Barnacle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turds in the Punchbowl S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,218 total, 28/month
Shared By: chris deulen on May 10, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This would probably fall under #3 for the Punchbowl area. Probably one of the best sport climbs in the universe. Crux is linking the moves on the roof and holding it together enough to pull around onto the face for more great technical climbing. I'm surprised this hasn't been sent yet, and the line is beautiful and inspiring in the midst of such an enchanted setting. Very intimidating as well. It may be harder than 13...

Location

Upon entering The Punchbowl, skirt along the bottom rim to the right until it goes uphill again for 30 feet or so. Rather than continuing uphill, cut back towards the cave and the first few bolts are the start of this gorgeous line.

Protection

9 bolts I believe. One could use a large cam between the 8th and 9th as it is pretty run out (about 15-20 feet I believe) though with 5.10 climbing. If you've made it that far, you shouldn't have much to worry about.

Photos

Mississippi James
Brighton by way of dirty south
Mississippi James   Brighton by way of dirty south
First off... this is truly a great route on an awesome, left-leaning arch with beautiful blue/ grey/ orange streaks above. The route still needs some scrubbing but would be amazing with more traffic. The lower (crux) arch section is very textured with limestone barnacles that really bit. If you can get past that, then the upper hea wall is more friendly and super fun. Next time I'm in Lime Creek I'll bring some stuff to do some cleaning for the masses. All in all, I think this is one of the better routes for the area and deserves more traffic! Aug 29, 2017
mkclimb
  5.13-
mkclimb  
  5.13-
I've just been calling it "The Punchbowl Arch" and the line next to it "Punchbowl Direct". Not sure if anyone has done that one recently; I tried it last summer and while most of the route is gorgeous, the bottom is rather friable - took off some big holds working it and it's substantially more difficult from bolts 1-4. Feb 11, 2015
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
Anybody got a name? Feb 12, 2014
jauernigg
edwards, co
  5.12d
jauernigg   edwards, co
  5.12d
Yeah, the left route on right side of the cave is in the 12d/13a area, but the route just to the right of it is real hard down low, like double digit boulder problem hard, but the headwall is some of the best rock in the canyon! Oct 20, 2013
Sjong  
I would agree with mkclimb. This is a great climb and should get more traffic but the grade is closer to 12d/13a. The climb to the right looks just as good but harder. Sep 2, 2013
mkclimb
  5.13-
mkclimb  
  5.13-
Wondering if anyone who has sent this route can give me some clarity?

While it is hella fun (that runout at the end is fairly easy climbing, but def. exciting), there are two routes on the right arch of the cave . . . .

According to the guidebook, the one that goes under the arch (where the picture here is taken) is a 5.13c bolted by Tommy Caldwell. It felt way closer to the low end of 13, though. There is another route that climbs on the vertical side of the arch that also looks hard - I believe that one was the open project, and the line pictured here is an older route.

Clarification? Anyone know? Jun 17, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
According to the 2008 guide from Wolverine Publishing, this line has been sent, and it's 13+. Aug 10, 2009