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Routes in Sugar Crack Buttress

Rubberneck Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sugar Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sugaree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jim Beissel and Mike Krowka, 2008
Page Views: 462 total, 4/month
Shared By: James Beissel on May 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin on the southwest side of the buttress and climb an angling, hand crack to a small bush. At this point, the crack forms a quartz-filled groove and the pro becomes scarce. It is possible to stem left to the corner and avoid the mungy runout. Continue up to a handcrack splitting a roof and turn the roof using hand jams and face holds (crux). Continue to the top of the buttress up broken rock.

Location

This is on the southwest side of Sugar Crack Buttress.

Protection

Standard rack to 3".

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Don't go left to the corner at the bush. It is totally avoidable and the direct line is protectable - put a cam below the bush, step left to a jug right by its base, and get up to standing on that. Step back right to the right above it, place good gear in the "quartz dike" and pull that from its right side on great sidepulls, then finish. Going left is dirty and loose and the moves are not as good anyway. May 9, 2012
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
We initially thought this was Sugar Crack, but after a chat with Dan Hare I'm pretty sure it wasn't. The name comes from the five or six cars that were backed up behind a "rubbernecker" watching us as we climbed. May 24, 2008