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Circus In My Pants
5.12d,
Sport, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 77
votes
FA: Matt Wendling 2004
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Circus Wall
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Do the tricky Step right this Way start then go left. As soon as you hit the black streak it gets difficult with multiple 5.12 cruxes and some 5.11 edge crimping for good measure at the top. Excellent movement with several options for each hard section, make this route tough to onsight. As cliche as it may sound, the hardest route at the crag is usually the best. No different here.
Location
The route between Step Right This Way and Circus In The Wind. Same start as Step Right This Way, but go left after the second clip.
Protection
Boulder, CO
Cody, WY
Also an easy one to work, as you can climb Circus In The Wind 11b, and swing over to the right to place draws and inspect the route or set up a toprope. Jun 11, 2010
Marmet, WV
Boulder, CO
As for the comment in the description: "As cliche as it may sound, the hardest route at the crag is usually the best. No different here." This is an insane thing to say. The 11a next to this is better, although both are classic. The elitism is amusing but blatantly wrong. Views like this are a blight on the climbing community, though they are luckily mostly confined to sport climbing bros with more muscles than brains. Aug 10, 2025