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Circus In My Pants

5.12d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 77 votes
FA: Matt Wendling 2004
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Circus Wall
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Description

Do the tricky Step right this Way start then go left. As soon as you hit the black streak it gets difficult with multiple 5.12 cruxes and some 5.11 edge crimping for good measure at the top. Excellent movement with several options for each hard section, make this route tough to onsight. As cliche as it may sound, the hardest route at the crag is usually the best. No different here.

Location

The route between Step Right This Way and Circus In The Wind. Same start as Step Right This Way, but go left after the second clip.

Protection

11 clips, sport anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Setting up for a big throw. Photo: @1doggirl
[Hide Photo] Setting up for a big throw. Photo: @1doggirl
Erica starting into the cruxy bit
[Hide Photo] Erica starting into the cruxy bit

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route! Sep 8, 2009
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Finally ticked this one. Matts retarded sandbag grade of 5.12a should be ignored entirely. This route is 5.12d and is on par with many other 12+ routes in Tensleep as far as quality and difficulty goes.
Also an easy one to work, as you can climb Circus In The Wind 11b, and swing over to the right to place draws and inspect the route or set up a toprope. Jun 11, 2010
mkclimb
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Might have felt stiff as this was the last route I got on after a five day trip, but goddamn lovely movement - fun set up into a very cruxy middle section, and then a good rest before a casual finish. Jul 14, 2012
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] On my working burn, I went out left at the top on edges instead of doing the gimme finish to the right...yup totally blew off one of those foot pebbles and took a heck of a ride!! awesome route!!! One of the reasons I came back to Ten Sleep!! Jul 1, 2013
drewhouser
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Don't come to Ten Sleep and miss this one! Jul 29, 2015
Pandy Fackler
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The last 2 bolts really detract from the route. If there are fixed draws, just lower from the 3rd to last... Aug 2, 2018
Rob Mudie
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] This route is sick, super worth doing. It's closer to 12a than 12d in my opinion, even for an onsight. More b/c though.

As for the comment in the description: "As cliche as it may sound, the hardest route at the crag is usually the best. No different here." This is an insane thing to say. The 11a next to this is better, although both are classic. The elitism is amusing but blatantly wrong. Views like this are a blight on the climbing community, though they are luckily mostly confined to sport climbing bros with more muscles than brains. Aug 10, 2025