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Routes in The Gill Boulder

606 V10 7C+
Baldwin Face V5-6 6C+ PG13
East Face V3 6A
Gill Face V2 5+ PG13
Grinch, The V10-11 8A
Horan Face V6- 7A
North Dihedral V1 5
North Face Dyno V3-4 6A+ PG13
North Face Mantel V2 5+
North Reach V1 5
Northeast Corner V0 4
SDS to Northeast Reach (submitted as The Blunt Arete) V3 6A
South Face V4 6B
Southeast Slab V1- 5-
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: ? Horan ?
Page Views: 6,706 total · 53/month
Shared By: SAL on May 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Start on a small boulder and grab crimpy but good holds. Angle up and right.


This is on the West face of the Gill Boulder on the North end, just left of 606.


A couple pads to fix up the ankle breaking landing.


Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Isn't this called V4 in the Benningfield guide? Either way, excellent problem! May 9, 2008
SAL   broomdigiddy
I think I was mistaken on this route, and it is actually the Baldwin Face judging from Bob Horan's Best of Boulder bouldering guide.
I posted this photo to help validate this info, so by all means please let me know if I'm out of whack here.
Cheers May 10, 2008
SAL   broomdigiddy
I will check out some stuff and other guides as well. I want to post some of the other routes on the gill as well so it would be nice to get it all straight.
SAL May 11, 2008
SAL   broomdigiddy
I'll go with the first two folks I heard from and keep this route as is with the standard route. I feel it goes at stout V5 or so but oh well. It is a great problem regardless and at least now someone has a way of seeing it.
Thanks for the input Adam.
Cheers May 12, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I would take just about any grade in Phil's book with a big grain of salt. If you read his introduction, he states he will always take the lower of two grade options. By general consensus, a number of problems which are well-traveled Front Range classics have crept steadily up in grade since the book came out. The author's "keep 'em in their place" attitude combined with vague problem descriptions has long been a pet peeve of mine and if there is a new edition, I'm hoping there's a lot less attitude and a lot more specific useful information.

A good alternative approach is Chip Philips' online guide to Flagstaff at flagstaffmountainbouldering… May 12, 2008
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
As for this problem, Horan identified it as the Horan Face. While it is certainly possible Pat (Ament) or John (Gill) did this problem back in the day, Pat never mentioned it in ANY of his guides and considering that it used to have a pretty bad landing, my best guess is that they passed on it.

It is a pretty damn good problem and with the addition of Will's 606 to the Gill Boulder, it is as popular as ever. May 12, 2008
SAL   broomdigiddy
Hey Chip.
That is what I had thought it was. Bob Horan's book is a little vague with the photo on this route and has 3 other lines with in feet of it to the left.
So, it was a bit confusing to read and try to post. I am going back Wed. this week and am going to snap a couple photos a bit more visible and see what happens.
The Gill Boulder is great, and I think we should have some accurate info on the higher end problems it carries.

Cheers May 12, 2008
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
FWIW, the problem done by John Baldwin is about 10 ft right of 606. May 12, 2008
SAL   broomdigiddy
Thanks Chip.
I am going with what my original thought was.
Thanks for the info. May 13, 2008
dan michels
boulder, CO
dan michels   boulder, CO
Feels like V6 for sure. Aug 1, 2009
Why is the Baldwin Face (B.1+) eliminated? A significant problem. This problem is listed in Front Range Bouldering (1989), Author: Bob Horan. Pg. 160. Description: "Left of the Gill Face about fifteen feet is a thin-edged face that moves up and right. FA: John Baldwin, 1988." (Start at standard face, go up one move, then go right, two moves, then straight up, and finish at jug) Apr 17, 2010
Naomi Guy  
Isn't 'The Baldwin face' the original (stand up) start to '606'? Done before the boulders were dug out? Jan 21, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
So for some perspective, if Zero G is V5 and Re-Entry Burn is consensus V6, then Horan Face is solid V6, at least in warm weather. Classic problem. May 23, 2014

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