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Routes in The Weasel Formation

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter . May 7th 2008
Page Views: 209 total, 2/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on May 8, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climbs a connected spire at the far West (left side of the Weasel formation . Good rock fine situations.P1). The route climbs the north side .Starts below some grooves that lead to an obvious crack system that leads to the gap below the headwall.Up a short thin crack then another groove to a ledge with good cam belay left of the long crack.70'5.7. P2)Move left and gain the crack which was climbed using a #4,#5,#6 friends cam. These were slid ,odd one was pulled on to reach double anchors..(will go all free) 5.9 AO. 100'P3)Climb up left and ascend the headwall with use of 2 cams 4 bolts and two threads to a fine summit 5.5 C1 60'. Register in hole 2'below summit. Rap to the top of P2 then full rap to the ground.

Location

See description of approach to Ozymandias. The Little Weasel spire is about 5 mins past this start to the east. Walk around the end of the formation to the north side.

Protection

Cams 1/4" to two#4 two#5 one#6 Friends. Slings. two 60m ropes.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Sorry Chaps your right West .. Have changed ... Good effort .... Greetings from the UK ... Mar 27, 2017
dejaentendu707 Johnson
Salt Lake City, UT
dejaentendu707 Johnson   Salt Lake City, UT
Did this yesterday with Tanner Frost. We were planning on doing it as a warm up for some of the other routes up there, but weather prevented us from getting on anything else. It took us a while to actually find this one because the descriptions for both "Little Weasel Spire" and "Sodizin Tower" say they are on the far east side of the Weasel Formation. We didn't have a compass, but we would have argued this one is actually on the far west side while Sodizin is on the east. The second pitch eats up big pieces like crazy. I ended up walking #3-6 camalots several times. I aided almost the entire pitch, and thought it was pretty strenuous. You could certainly free that pitch, but you'd better love really awkward offwidths if you're going to try... We were happy to find the bolts and anchors all in fantastic shape. We looked in the hole below the summit but couldn't find a register. Mar 27, 2017
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
No known second ascend ascent as of June 2010 Jun 18, 2010