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Routes in Y - South Side

Apeshit (aka Cavemantle) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Mike Roybal, ~1973
Page Views: 51 total, 0/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on May 7, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This climb has a nice slick start consisting of a thin finger crack and some varnished foot placements that ascend leftward to a good underclinging finger crack which offers good gear placements to protect the crux moves. Then grab the sharp edge of a jugular shelf that is heel hooked and mantled to a bolt with no hanger, use a nut that can be a stopper cinched onto the bolt for pro, or better yet, use a bolt hanger and bring a nut that fits a 3/8 stud bolt. Don't forget to clean the hanger when you are done as it will most likely get stripped. After protecting above the cavemantle grab some round jugs to gain access into the upper handcrack portion of the climb which gobbles gear all the way to the top.

Location

This route is the furthest developed obvious crack climb to the east on the South Wall across the river from the North Wall. It is located just to the right of a hangerless 5.12 sport route that probably never gets climbed. Walk down about 100 yards to the west. A couple 5th class moves are required on this down climb

Protection

Stoppers, 1 set if Aliens, Doubles of Camalots from #1 to #4, and trad runners. Belay from live trees and supplement with gear. If top roping trail a long static line for a good TR set.

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
This climb protects well at its crux with a #4 cam placed horizontally just above the mantle shelf, on the right side. I found no need to mess with the hangerless bolts from the climb that once existed to the left of this climb.

You can avoid the crux by starting to the right and traversing in to join the hand crack. The guidebooks list an "Easy Start" (5.9) just to the right of Apeshit, but show that line as independent for the entire route rather than just the beginning, which doesn't make much considering the name. I've climbed that line, as shown, all the way up; it goes at 5.9. May 8, 2008