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Wine and Roses

5.11-, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 32 votes
FA: Dan Hare & ?
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Middle Animal World
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Description

Start as for Ride My Seesaw and after the second bolt follow the short corner to the off-size finger crack through a small roof and up thin fingers to the anchor.

This is a really good route with good but somewhat strenuous gear placements. Dan rated the route hard 5.10 back in 1979 on the FA but after doing it for a second time thinks it is 5.11...I agree!

Location

As for Ride My Seesaw.

Protection

Gear to a green Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hard to see, but climber is in the middle of the photo at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Hard to see, but climber is in the middle of the photo at the crux.
This thing looks inviting.
[Hide Photo] This thing looks inviting.
Just above the crux.
[Hide Photo] Just above the crux.
Ivan Rezucha catches a rest after the crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Ivan Rezucha catches a rest after the crux roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way.

You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb.

Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required.

If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line. May 18, 2008
david goldstein
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] I agree w/ Tony's remark that this would be classic if the good part were maybe twice as long. May 19, 2008
[Hide Comment] Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11- Jun 27, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway. Apr 25, 2010
khoa
Tacomarado
 
[Hide Comment] The finger crack at the top is short but real nice. Jun 17, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist. Mar 7, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon. May 3, 2014
[Hide Comment] Beware the poison oak on the ledge past the first 2 bolts and the bats in the crack. Jul 12, 2021