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Routes in Atlantic

Atlantic Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Atomic Dust Dance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
El Tesoro S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Field Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Field Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Field of Opportunity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gauntlet, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Morass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Last of the Dead Guy's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Macho Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pretender, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Romper Room S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saturn T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Thin Lizzy aka Goon Squad T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Three Bolt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Duane Raleigh, Bill Thomas 1980
Page Views: 205 total · 2/month
Shared By: BrianUp Up on May 6, 2008

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With dark water streak to the left - Step over the little gully and clip the low 1st bolt. Climb the face. The second bolt is just past the prominent horizontal crack with a bulge above. Some nice features get you over the bulge, and then continue up the slabby face. Not many big handholds but there is always something if you keep moving. After the 4th bolt bear left to join up with the dark streak and follow it to the top.

A two rope rappel is a good idea the 1st time, but now I always use one 60m and traverse diagonally way right (facing the climb). Keep weight on the rope to stretch it and you can just make it to a 6 foot downclimb along a crack. If you single-rope rap make sure the ends are even and keep track of how much you have left.

See also: "Oklahoma Select: A Climber's Guide" by Tony Mayse. You'll probably need some photos to find routes.


From South America feature this route is maybe 200 feet up the slope/talus to the right. The last bit of the approach is a narrow second class ramp, then a couple hops up to the left onto a 2-3 person boulder platform. The Pretender follows a dark water streak to the left. A flake/corner where Three Bolt starts is off to the right. Romper Room follows a faint streak pretty much straight up for the first 4 bolts. There is a little step-across gully between the main face and the belay boulder.


About 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor on a nice ledge.



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