Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Duane Raleigh, Bill Thomas 1980
Page Views: 235 total · 2/month
Shared By: BrianUp Up on May 6, 2008
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


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Description

With dark water streak to the left - Step over the little gully and clip the low 1st bolt. Climb the face. The second bolt is just past the prominent horizontal crack with a bulge above. Some nice features get you over the bulge, and then continue up the slabby face. Not many big handholds but there is always something if you keep moving. After the 4th bolt bear left to join up with the dark streak and follow it to the top.

A two rope rappel is a good idea the 1st time, but now I always use one 60m and traverse diagonally way right (facing the climb). Keep weight on the rope to stretch it and you can just make it to a 6 foot downclimb along a crack. If you single-rope rap make sure the ends are even and keep track of how much you have left.

See also: "Oklahoma Select: A Climber's Guide" by Tony Mayse. You'll probably need some photos to find routes.

Location

From South America feature this route is maybe 200 feet up the slope/talus to the right. The last bit of the approach is a narrow second class ramp, then a couple hops up to the left onto a 2-3 person boulder platform. The Pretender follows a dark water streak to the left. A flake/corner where Three Bolt starts is off to the right. Romper Room follows a faint streak pretty much straight up for the first 4 bolts. There is a little step-across gully between the main face and the belay boulder.

Protection

About 6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor on a nice ledge.

Photos

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