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Routes in Anti-Crag

Asymmetry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Ass Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BattleAxe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Chicken Fingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Differential Equations T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Heckle and Jive T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Chance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Old Grey Mare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabid Snake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Singularity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Symmetry T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Torreoncito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tim Roley
Page Views: 1,392 total, 12/month
Shared By: bio on May 6, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Starts nice crack then into thin 15 ft chimney. Chimney is a lot of work, especially if you are big. Good pro in the bag of the chimney then pull bulge and continue on nice fingers, tight hands to top. Rap off.

Location

Right around the corner from chicken fingers - past the first steep crack. Look for a very narrow chimney about 20 feet above.

Protection

Small to large cams, nuts. triples or quads in the .75 size.

Photos

RyanJames  
 
Definitely an amazing climb, especially the squeeze! The long sleeve shirt beta is key. I also used a knee pad that helped too (my squeeze chimney form isn't that great, yet). I also suggest triples of .5 and .75. I agree with the PG13 rating: it's definitely one of the safest routes in the canyon and can be protected practically every vertical foot from the bottom to the top. Jun 20, 2012
Chris Prewitt
  5.10
Chris Prewitt  
  5.10
An all-around great climb. Pulling out of the chimney section was so much fun. The dihedral was loaded with good stances and nice flat jugs. Not sure why it was given a PG13, I thought it was well protected and the rock was good. Aug 2, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
Trying to get myself through the slot wasted me for the rest of the climb. I was happy to have three .75 camalots May 30, 2011
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
This climb is great-lots of variation-off width (wear long sleeves)-and nice thin-ish crack-yaya!!! Jul 25, 2010