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Napoleon's Angst

5.10c, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 14 votes
FA: ???
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > (J) The Sponge

Description

Start up a slab and then navigate up a slightly overhanging arete with a variety of workable pockets. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts.

Location

This route is the first route left around the corner from Pumpin' Huecos, still on The Sponge proper.

Protection

Five bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is not what you want to see sliding down the rope at you.
[Hide Photo] This is not what you want to see sliding down the rope at you.
Pulling through the crux of <em>Napoleon's Angst</em>.
[Hide Photo] Pulling through the crux of Napoleon's Angst.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary. Jul 16, 2009
Devin Shunk
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Especially if your name is George Perkins. Jul 23, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Reno, NV
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is still missing its hangar, but as George said, it's very reasonable to get to the second. You have to make one move past the hangarless first bolt, 5.8 at most. I would say that getting to the first bolt on this climb is less committing/dangerous than getting to the first bolt on Pumping Huecos.

Overall, it's a pretty nice climb. I think it might be harder than Pumping Huecos, or at least in the same ballpark. But maybe I was doing something wrong. Jul 20, 2010
Sergey A.
5.10d
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is not necessary but with a missing hanger it doesn't look pretty on the rock. May 12, 2014