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Routes in The Sponge

Freeloader Friday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hollywood Tim S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hueco Pareidolia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napoleon's Angst S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping Harry S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pumping Huecos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sal's Neurosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sponge Problem, The V8 7B
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,047 total, 9/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a slab and then navigate up a slightly overhanging arete with a variety of workable pockets. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts.

Location

This route is the first route left around the corner from Pumpin' Huecos, still on The Sponge proper.

Protection

Five bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Sergey A.
5.10d
Sergey A.  
5.10d
The first bolt is not necessary but with a missing hanger it doesn't look pretty on the rock. May 12, 2014
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
The first bolt is still missing its hangar, but as George said, it's very reasonable to get to the second. You have to make one move past the hangarless first bolt, 5.8 at most. I would say that getting to the first bolt on this climb is less committing/dangerous than getting to the first bolt on Pumping Huecos.

Overall, it's a pretty nice climb. I think it might be harder than Pumping Huecos, or at least in the same ballpark. But maybe I was doing something wrong. Jul 20, 2010
Devin Shunk
  5.10b
Devin Shunk  
  5.10b
Especially if your name is George Perkins. Jul 23, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary. Jul 16, 2009