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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on May 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The 2nd crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin slab section. Up higher, you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some tricky pro but easier climbing.

This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, it is well-protected, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.

Location

This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.

This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'

Protection

3 bolts, plus some gear (nuts and cams from fingers to 2").
Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.

Photos

David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.9+
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.9+
The rating depends on how far to the left one moves through the slab section at the second bolt (left is 5.9). Aug 1, 2017
Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
  5.9
Levi Wilner   Alamosa, CO
  5.9
This is the only climb of the 3 'Unknowns' with anchor bolts at the top. Oct 12, 2015
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.9
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.9
The left trending semi-detached column-like feature just left of the quarts dike/groove feature where the face steepens is awful hollow. Its easy not to use that feature but be careful. Other than that, a fun route. Aug 26, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9
Agree that this is the best of the three, mainly for its interesting movement and sequences. Liked being able to place gear where I wanted it and the fun exposure. Aug 8, 2012
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.9+
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.9+
I thought this was the best of the three "Unknown" mostly-bolted lines on this side of South Rock, though the other two are quite nice as well. Harder than the line to it's right, and only a little easier than the so-called "5.10+" to it's left. Jul 4, 2010
This is a really fun climb! The 15 feet from the top of the block to the last bolt is sweet. I climbed it without knowing the grade and felt that the bolted part was a little harder then 5.9+, but then again my shoes have split toes. I only took nuts with me and only placed one of them. There are lot of places to put gear but after the last bolt the climbing eaes up (solid lay backs) and I felt ok running it out. Nov 27, 2008