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Bloodletting
5.11+,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 12
votes
FA: Andy and Laura Johnson?
Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Reynolds Hill
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
Description
For those not familiar with the term, bloodletting was a technique used back in the old days to cleanse a sick person of bad blood. The patient's forearms were cut and the blood would flow, many times for a bit too long. If you get on this route, you will quickly realize the validity of the name. I am not completely sure that this is an FA and would love to hear some feedback. It is a sustained, overhanging #3 to #4 Camalot crack for the first 40', then you get to a pod and the crack arcs right and pinches down to very flared, thin hands and fingers. I know Vedauwoo very well and I have never heard of this or seen any pictures, but it is very worthy. I won't lie, the rock quality is good in the fist crack section, but once you hit the pod and the finger crack starts the rock becomes very grainy, sharp and crystally. I think with a few more ascents it will clean up a lot. One reason I believe it to be an FA is the amount of cleaning I did. This is a good hard Vedauwoo route that should get good with some action. Get on it and let me know what you think.
Location
This route is tough to find despite its vicinity to Reynolds. You can't see it until you are right under it. If you are at the climb and punishment area walk climber's right staying out of the rocks and on easy ground. You'll basically continue around the base of Reynolds until it becomes a lot of smaller flake/pinnacle formations. Walk around a cool feature with some flares and a big conglomerate band that makes a roof. Once you walk around the corner of this formation which is basically the end of the Reynolds jumble walk about 100 feet still keeping the rock immediately on your left and keep looking left. Go up a slot between two boulders with a dead tree on the ground on the left side and Bloodletting will be right in front of you. It is directly across the valley from muscle and fitness, and if you are at end of the road rocks and looking at Reynolds you'll see a right arcing crack low down, that's it. Bloodletting is a splitter up an overhanging tombstone looking rock.
Protection
Mainly #3-old #4 Camalots with a fingers piece or two for the end.
This climb now has a fixed anchor for cleaning and toproping. One 1/2" x 2 3/4" SS 5piece bolt + an older bolt.
![Luebben on a close but unsuccessful attempt back in the mid-nineties.]()
[Hide Photo] Luebben on a close but unsuccessful attempt back in the mid-nineties.
![Laura standing below Bloodletting.]()
[Hide Photo] Laura standing below Bloodletting.
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Fort Collins, CO
I agree wholeheartedly with your assessment of the quality of this climb. This is a tremendous climb. Congratulations.
Jim Brink Oct 20, 2010
Fort Collins, CO
Jim Oct 20, 2010
Boulder, CO
It continues to rain down tiny pebbles as it 'cleans up'. Awesome climb. Sep 11, 2016
Fort Collins, CO
It rained some kitty litter down on my belayer then 3 days later was fine. Kitty litter was mainly from the sides/faces of the crack, not where gear was necessarily. Gear was great. More people should climb this thing.
If you want to onsight then skip this next section: I found levittation to work wonders on this climb. I still had to do some hard fist jamming and very loose hand jamming, but a couple knee locks and hand or hand/fist stacks helped me. Additionally, I found it best to place gear low (at my waist) as to not block jams. Good rests but still very pumpy. I've climbed at Vedauwoo a bit over the years, and I think this route highlights a good culmination of many different techniques that you learn while climbing here. Sep 26, 2020