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Routes in Walrus Ledge

Camel Toe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Droopy Corndog S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'm in Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pressing Shish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Running From Voodoo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on May 5, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

11d/12a (see below)

Starts on a slightly overhung face/corner, climbing up into the layback face with the small ledge for feet. Pull a bulge and climb the steep slab through a slightly chossy section and a scary-to-clip bolt. Make a hard undercling move to jug pockets. Steep pockets and sidepulls take you to thin moves at the top.

Holds have fallen off this route over the years. Stay left at the 4th bolt, as some huge stuff has fallen off there.

Also, the top seems to be missing a hold, but it still goes. This move and the undercling move below seem a bit easier for taller folks, leading me to suggest 11d/12a, as the crux move felt just as hard as Warrior Poet and Atmosfear (5'9").

Location

Near the right end of Walrus Ledge, this is the first bolt line left of the large dihedral crack.

Protection

~8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Dakota from North Dakota
Golden, Colorado
  5.12a
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, Colorado
  5.12a
SO FUN! And SO hard for me. I noticed 3 distinct cruxes. The first being the roof at the bottom, second a cryptic delicate sequence in the middle, and finally another difficult to decipher few moves just below the anchors.

Also, stick clip for sure! Aug 11, 2013