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Routes in Reclining Tower

A Baraboo Thing T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Side T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
South Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Two Flakes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
X-Rated TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 65 total, 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on May 5, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

It may be short, but it has three cruxes. This route is the epitome of the TR = boulder problem.

Start just left of the corner, step right to the corner. Move left to the flake. Work right under the overlap, until a big move scores you the obvious jug. The final crux is re-tabling up onto the jug.

Location

Up the gully left of Reclining Tower, on the prominent corner of the wall to the left. Perhaps 50 feet from the trail along the top.

Protection

Ha ha ha! The TR setup is funky, too.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The difficulty of this route is wing-span dependent. I would expect ratings to vary from 5.10 to 5.11.

An oddity here is that the original rating given to this route was F10B in Widule & Swartling's first edition of the Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. "The Flatiron" was given as the standard for F10B, and in the second edition this translates into anything from 5.11a to 5.11d. In the current edition this route is rated a mild 5.10a!

Personally, I would estimate this route is something like 5.10d/5.11a. May 6, 2008