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Butterface

5.10a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2 from 62 votes
FA: Aaron Child and Christian Knight
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Appendage

Description

Delicate face climbing with interesting finger locks and crimps.

Location

The orange-colored face 25 feet left of The Ledge.

Protection

3 bolts to ring anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Appendage to <em>The Appendage</em><br>
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9 [[106285641]] 5.7<br>
10 [[106156200]] 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Appendage to The Appendage 9 Crisco Crack 5.7 10 Butterface 5.10a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This is quite a fun little route. If it were only longer... Jul 3, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Pocatello, ID
 
[Hide Comment] This route was harder than I expected. Lots of balancy climbing on sidepulls and finger locks. As I was climbing it I was thinking, man, this is kinda tricky for a 5.10a. Then as I was lowering down I found holds that I didn't see on my way up... Oh. Yeah, .10a sounds about right...

As others have said, it's fun but really short. Worth doing. My favorite part was the kinda desperate stab for the really good (though you don't know if it's good or not when you're reaching for it) ledge below the chains.

We cleaned out some smallish loose blocks in the cracks that were creaking and wobbling. Aug 11, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Pocatello, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Did the route all on trad gear today and you can sew the thing up pretty well. Used some trick pieces (a couple Splitter Gear 2 Cams and a couple offset Aliens) but it is definitely doable without them. I think the route actually protects better as a trad climb... Apr 18, 2009
[Hide Comment] Quite tricky and hard to read. A pretty good onsite. Started on the far right edge and quickly shifted to the seam/crack left of the bolts the rest of the way. Jul 17, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a fun little climb. It has a lot of miniature crack-like features that you can jam, while at the same time using different slabby features. It's tricky, awkward, burly, and enjoyable. Too bad it's so short. Jun 5, 2010
Tim Moore
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Crimpy at parts and hard on the left arm all the way up. Very balancy moves and terrible foot holds especially to start. Pockets are hard to find but surprisingly good when you do find them. A bit reachy especially at the top Apr 8, 2014
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I was pleasantly surprised by this route. The holds are all there, though they can be a bit tricky to find. Wish it was longer. Aug 3, 2017
Mitch Henderson
Provo, UT
[Hide Comment] Solid, super fun route. Lay back on the holds and crank to the top. Very good route to break into the 5.10 grade. Dec 3, 2019