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Routes in Brown's Peak

Ladybug, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chuck Graf, Bob Graf, and Bruce Grubbs, 1969
Page Views: 2,133 total · 17/month
Shared By: Pete Hickman on May 4, 2008 with updates from bio
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the buttress to the right of the hiker's gully. The first pitch is okay and pretty short. The second pitch is great and the highlight of the climb. The third pitch is a little sketchy and not that much fun. Also, you should note that this route does not take you all the way to the summit of Brown's peak. When you get to the top of the Ladybug you then have to rap down to the hikers gully or to the southwest where you can scramble over to the gully. There is also much loose rock on the last pitch. See Greg Opland's book Phoenix Rock II for additional information.

Location

Continue up the trail towards the gully which turns into a scramble as you get closer to the start of the gully. Avoid moving right too early or you may not find the route. Head towards the gully until just a few feet before you enter the gully, then move right along the bottom face of the buttress. The Ladybug starts just maybe 30 feet to the right of the gully. The kind of just wanders up intermittent ctacks and broken face across ledges, so dont worry too much about your starting point or path. Plan on at least 2.5 hours from central Phoenix to the base of the climb.

Protection

Plenty of places for pro of all sizes. No bolts, no anchors, no fixed gear except the first two pitches have new anchors and there issome old webbing you may find at the false summit slung around some sketchy block, that is if the block didn't fall on the last people who rap'd it. The very top has two poorly located glue ins so its hard to pull your rope after wrapping. A single 70m will get you all the way into the gully.

Photos

Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
  5.5
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
  5.5
For the third pitch I went pretty much straight up from the top of the large fallen block at the second belay. I am not sure this is the actual third pitch though because it looked like maybe the third might move around a little farther to the right. May 5, 2008
TKlein
Tempe, AZ
  5.5
TKlein   Tempe, AZ
  5.5
Theres a 5.6 variation for the first pitch. Continue past normal start to a clearing where there is a large tree that appears to be growing horizontally out of the ground. Start up the crack system there and go left after 80 or so feet to the ledge with the 2 small bushes. The route will join the regular lady bug route here. This climb is really easy and the views are great but I wont make it a point to head back. Rapped off the large block and left some new cordelette behind. (4/9/2016) Apr 14, 2016
bio
mesa, az
 
bio   mesa, az
 
Mostly just steep hiking. Very loose but worth the work for the views. Very dirty and loose Aug 30, 2018

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