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Routes in Pitch Penny Boulder

My Two Cents V2 5+
Penny Boulder Traverse V2 5+
Penny Lunge V0+ 4+
Penny North V8 7B
Penny Pincher V3+ 6A+
Penny Standard V2 5+
Right Traverse V3 6A PG13
Silver Dollar Traverse V7 7A+
Southwest Arete V0 4 PG13
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Type: Boulder
FA: Dave Bohn
Page Views: 3,625 total · 29/month
Shared By: Texaswall Seale on May 4, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The start consists of opposing sidepulls, and the crux is to hold on to one of them while reaching high for another sharp sidepull. Grab it with your right and lay off of it to work right foot up to the original right hand. Flag the left foot, stand up and rest your left hand in a nice horizontal. The next obvious hold occurs where the boulder's face backs off the vertical and it resembles a mini-runnel which can provide a fingerlock. However, you may consider using it for another sidepull as you squeeze a sloper with the right, work the feet onto a very thin section of the face and throw for the finishing jug.

Location

This route is immediately right of Penny Pincher. There appears to be some mention of this problem in the discussion of Penny Pincher. Another website calls it Fingerlock Face, but the first ascentionist has stated that's not correct and called for something "original". The back of the Penny Boulder is an easy walk off.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Jeff Flanegan
Lander, WY
  V2
Jeff Flanegan   Lander, WY
  V2
Going up with the right hand to the dish is the easiest way and is a nice warm-up V2. If you want a harder variation: sit start on the sidepulls, and go up with your left hand to the dish. Mar 5, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V2
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V2
I'm fairly tall, and I felt (as strange as this sounds) that it was easier to start this from a sit and throw for the high RH sidepull. Mar 13, 2017

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