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Edge of Delight

5.10b/c, Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Dave Jones
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Grotto & Base of Grea…
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the left facing beautifull tight hands corner to a roof. Step left and set up an anchor off the 2 inch tree! (Bring a hand Drill!!!) Climb the wide layback flake, to a 2 bolt anchor.

There is a 3rd pitch that looks beautifull, it has anchors but know nothing about it

Location

As soon as the approach tril hits the base of the wall this is the first thing you see..Just look for the 200ft flake from the parking lot

Protection

Triple set .75-4 camolot. Old Style

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Edge of Delight
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Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
[Hide Comment] The can be a great climb. The problem with doing it in one pitch is the rope will get caught in a pinch at the roof and creat heinous drag. I don't think it's possible to avoid that. Doing it in 2 pitches would avoid that problem, however, the slung tree is kinda sketch. There are some gear options for anchors, but it would still be a bit awkward. As for the "second pitch" flake, you need at least 2 #5 BDs (I would recommend 3 if you don't want to run it out) and a couple of #4s. The guidebook says the flake is 5.8......my o/w must really suck cuz it felt harder...... Apr 11, 2015
[Hide Comment] I did the FA of this years ago.
Dave J Mar 11, 2016