All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…

Moveable Feast

Name: Moveable Feast
Rating: 1.7

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

L › R R › L A › Z

	976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bullfighter, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	To Have And Have Not TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA:	Roy McClenahan and Helga Brown, March 1988
Page Views:	1,154 total · 7/month
Shared By:	C Miller on May 4, 2008
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Climb Poodle-oids from The Deep for 30' and then continue up the plated face above passing four bolts and some suspect holds. At the last bolt you have two choices - climb slightly left (5.10+) with long reaches between small edges or head right and climb the arete (5.9+), cutting back left higher up when possible. Continue up easy face and cracks to the shoulder of the formation and then top out onto the summit block.

There are some good moves on this climb but the poor rock quality at the start detracts slightly as does the hollow holds on some of the face moves; all in all a good adventure for those competent at the grade.

To descend make a short 30 foot rap from the summit block to the top of the Hemingway Buttress proper and either rap off from anchors atop The Importance of being Ernest or downclimb.

Location

Located in the center of Hemingway Buttress about 30' right of Poodle in Shining Armor, just left of On the Nob and directly behind a large, healthy oak tree.