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Moveable Feast
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face Mid
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976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bullfighter, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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To Have And Have Not TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02427, -116.17832 |
| FA: | Roy McClenahan and Helga Brown, March 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,447 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on May 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb Poodle-oids from The Deep for 30' and then continue up the plated face above passing four bolts and some suspect holds. At the last bolt you have two choices - climb slightly left (5.10+) with long reaches between small edges or head right and climb the arete (5.9+), cutting back left higher up when possible. Continue up easy face and cracks to the shoulder of the formation and then top out onto the summit block.
There are some good moves on this climb but the poor rock quality at the start detracts slightly as does the hollow holds on some of the face moves; all in all a good adventure for those competent at the grade.
- To descend make a short 30 foot rap from the summit block to the top of the Hemingway Buttress proper and either rap off from anchors atop The Importance of being Ernest or downclimb.
Location
Located in the center of Hemingway Buttress about 30' right of Poodle in Shining Armor, just left of On the Nob and directly behind a large, healthy oak tree.
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