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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bullfighter, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
To Have And Have Not TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Roy McClenahan and Helga Brown, March 1988
Page Views: 555 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 4, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb Poodle-oids from The Deep for 30' and then continue up the plated face above passing four bolts and some suspect holds. At the last bolt you have two choices - climb slightly left (5.10+) with long reaches between small edges or head right and climb the arete (5.9+), cutting back left higher up when possible (easier but scarier considering the bolt quality). Continue up easy face and cracks to the shoulder of the formation and then top out onto the summit block.

There are some good moves on this climb but the poor rock quality at the start detracts slightly as does the hollow holds on some of the face moves, and the bolts are in serious need of an upgrade. All in all a good adventure for those competent at the grade.

A single 70 meter rope is sufficent to descend. A single 60 meter rope might work if you swing left and downclimb some questionable rock (not recommended), but 2 ropes will work fine otherwise.

Location

Located in the center of Hemingway Buttress about 30' right of Poodle in Shining Armor, just left of On the Nob and directly behind a large, healthy oak tree.

Protection

4 bolts (5/16"), gear to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap (5/16")

Photos

Josh Harding
Mariposa, Ca
  5.10d PG13
Josh Harding   Mariposa, Ca
  5.10d PG13
Your right John, there is a lot of potential, but with bad bolts and bad rock by the end you are pissed off rather then having fun. Apr 25, 2011

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