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Black Death
5.8 R,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 22
votes
FA: unknown
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> McDowell Mountains
> Sven Slab
Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit
scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
Climb up on triangular boulder, place gear, then fire out left for the first bolt. Continue up past short left-facing flake and continue up to second bolt. Continue up face to crack. Get in crack and take that up and right all the way to belay at eyebolt.
Location
Far left side of Main slab bolted routes, black H2O stains are a sign near start(or start on triangular boulder). Starts under a right-arching crack. off the triangular boulder..
Protection
2 bolts, pro to 3" or so.
[Hide Photo] CABRP replacing the first bolt on Black Death. Still a gnarly fall if you blow it before the clip.
[Hide Photo] Black Death - 5.8
[Hide Photo] CABRP Replaced the Bolts on Black Death on 03/26/2022. 1/2 SS 5-Piece Bolts.
[Hide Photo] First crack you can place gear into to protect the thin move up to the first bolt. Photo Courtesy of ClimbPHX.com
SLC
Phoenix, AZ
Scottsdale, AZ
Also, if you are looking at the route in "McDowell Rock: A Climber's Guide", I don't think the depicted red line is the route. The book has the correct start, but it shows the route going up and right of the 2nd crack above the 1st bolt. I don't think one can clip following that beta. Also, there is a 2nd bolt further up in the middle of the face, assuming one goes straight up from the 1st bolt. It is too far right to be part of Criss-Cross. Jan 4, 2021
Chandler, AZ
Phoenix