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Black Death

5.8 R, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 22 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > McDowell Mountains > Sven Slab
Warning Access Issue: Access: DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb up on triangular boulder, place gear, then fire out left for the first bolt. Continue up past short left-facing flake and continue up to second bolt. Continue up face to crack. Get in crack and take that up and right all the way to belay at eyebolt.

Location

Far left side of Main slab bolted routes, black H2O stains are a sign near start(or start on triangular boulder). Starts under a right-arching crack. off the triangular boulder.. 

Protection

2 bolts, pro to 3" or so.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

CABRP replacing the first bolt on Black Death.  Still a gnarly fall if you blow it before the clip.
[Hide Photo] CABRP replacing the first bolt on Black Death. Still a gnarly fall if you blow it before the clip.
Black Death - 5.8
[Hide Photo] Black Death - 5.8
CABRP Replaced the Bolts on Black Death on 03/26/2022.  1/2 SS 5-Piece Bolts.
[Hide Photo] CABRP Replaced the Bolts on Black Death on 03/26/2022. 1/2 SS 5-Piece Bolts.
First crack you can place gear into to protect the thin move up to the first bolt. <br>
Photo Courtesy of ClimbPHX.com
[Hide Photo] First crack you can place gear into to protect the thin move up to the first bolt. Photo Courtesy of ClimbPHX.com

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Miguel D
SLC
 
[Hide Comment] Towards the top you'll be going up a diagonal fist Crack for a bit. I'd recommend bringing up at least one #3 c4 Jan 2, 2016
Tyler Collins
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I'm guessing the R rating is if you start on the slab. If you climb the triangle boulder to start you can place a piece before heading out onto the slab. Nov 29, 2020
Jeff Burke
Scottsdale, AZ
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is out of reach from the triangular boulder at the start. I'm 5'9", and was only able to reach the first bolt after getting to the 2nd crack which is about a foot above the bolt.

Also, if you are looking at the route in "McDowell Rock: A Climber's Guide", I don't think the depicted red line is the route. The book has the correct start, but it shows the route going up and right of the 2nd crack above the 1st bolt. I don't think one can clip following that beta. Also, there is a 2nd bolt further up in the middle of the face, assuming one goes straight up from the 1st bolt. It is too far right to be part of Criss-Cross. Jan 4, 2021
Ben Albrecht
Chandler, AZ
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun lead, I tried to place a cam at the end of the flake before the bolt. I pull tested the cam and the entire top of flake flexed. Put cam back on rack and climbed on! The climbing of the triangular block is awesome! The crack to end is 5-easy and MEGA fun. You can easily walk around back and set up solo TR too! Jan 19, 2021
Nate Young
Phoenix
[Hide Comment] CABRP.org replaced the bolts on this route on 03/26/2022. 1/2" Stainless Steel 5-Piece bolts and new hangers. Mar 28, 2022