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Routes in Deer Creek Crag

Heart Shaped Box Boulder V2-3 5+
Highwayman, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Horseshoes and Handgrenades TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugular V3 6A
Metallica Monday V8 7B
Paper Planes V7 7A+ PG13
Pimp Chimp's Crimp, The V4 6B
Random V6 V6 7A
Road Less Traveled, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Variety Show TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Westside Connection, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,622 total, 23/month
Shared By: mlloyd on Apr 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private Property? Details

Description

This is one of the best short 5.12s in Colorado. Bouldery and thugy on good edges. It is the second route from the right. It climbs right meeting up with "The Highway Man".

Location

This is the second route from the right located on the Roadside Wall in Deer Creek Canyon.

Protection

Some quickdraws.

Photos

Us old timers can't believe you young whipper snappers with your shiny bolts and fancy shoes. In our day, we climbed these lines with nothing more than a rack of hexes, a hemp rope, and flip flops. We didn't call those little holds "crimps." We just called them "little holds." Kids these days! Sep 6, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.12b
Luke Childers  
  5.12b
Great line... solid for the grade while offering long positive moves on steep stone that leads to an exciting finish sequence. This line climbs better than it first appears.

The anchors could use a little make over so's to not crush and rub one's rope when lowering. Oct 22, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
I knew it was only a matter of time before that one ripped off.... Good hold to clip from for sure. Oct 2, 2009
Jamie gatchalian
denver, co
  5.12b
Jamie gatchalian   denver, co
  5.12b
What a great route! Def packs a punch for how short it is. Unfortunately, the flexy crimp jug by the 3rd bolt ripped off the wall today. It was nice to clip off of, for sure. The route isn't any harder, you just have to clip low or even higher than before. My climber took a good winger when that thing came out.... Sep 30, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12
Schtweep! (short, steep and sweet) Mar 12, 2009
jleining   CO
You guys are pathetic. The mantle at the end is the best part of the climb, the fixed anchors are right there on the lip above the mantle, and plus The Highway Man shares the anchor with this climb. Feb 24, 2009
Thanks Jables! Nov 18, 2008
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
I didn't mean to be such a dick. Sometimes the words don't flow right. I guess my point was just fix the anchors. That rock has more history than you might think so at least do it right.

Plus, don't expect that almost every line did not get a TR run sometime through the ages prior to you guys, but who cares about that. I think setting it up for free climbs is a good thing. Cheers. Nov 10, 2008
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Care about what? The anchors being in a shitty spot? That's an obtuse statement. Are they yours? Refresh my memory: are they some of the anchors that have been there since before 1987, when I first climbed there? Or are they part of this new "development"?

Regardless, they might as well be in the most effective location. So, since you guys have decided to bolt that which many, many bolters before you have climbed on repeatedly and chose to pass by (back when you were in grade school, btw), it might as well be done right. So either the original top-roper from the mid-'70s placed them there, in which case I highly doubt that whomever did it would give a shit; or someone from this era did it and bungled the job; either way just put in 2 good anchors in the most effective spot and move on.

Hell, someone wants to spring for the gear I'll swing by and do it. Nov 9, 2008
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Who cares? It's a funny little rock alongside the road. It had been a top rope crag for dozens and dozens of years before being bolted. If the anchor situation needs updating, then just do it. It's not like you are altering some heavily ascended, famous or epic route. Oct 29, 2008
Does anyone know the equipper of this route so we can contact to change the anchor's location? This is something that is needed to be done ASAP.
Is this something we need to get 'permission' for? Oct 29, 2008
BURL! Climbs a lot longer and harder than it looks, well it looks pretty stout (and it is!).

There is a fixed chain/biner on the last bolt on the lip of the wall. Are people clipping this and lowering off of the one bolt? Going to the anchors looks sketchy as the rock quality does not look solid. But, lowering off this one bolt seems just as bad as it grinds your rope into the rock.

How are people cleaning or lowering off this thing? Oct 23, 2008
I would be very careful actually going to the anchors on this climb. There are some huge sections of rock/talus that are extremely hollow after you mantle. Not to mention the anchors are in a pretty serious fractured rock. Look closely and you'll see the fracture all the way around your anchors. Jul 15, 2008