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Routes in Pillar of Bubdom

Pillar of Bubdom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Widen, Graham Frontella, John Plvan, Nov. 22, 1994
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Apr 28, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Location

The route starts up the gully to the left of the tower. 4th class up the gully on sandy rock to a 5th class section and bust out the gear.

Description

Pitch 1:There looked to be a few options at this first steep section and we opted for the crack on the left in the dihedral. Climb up a sandy flared crack until it steepens. Pull on a few cams to get over the bulge and onto a ledge. You surely could free this but it is sandy and your in a gully.(50' 5.6, C1)

Pitch 2:Scramble up the gully until you reach another steep section. We chose a crack on the right side of the gully that required some slab climbing to get to the crack and had a tree above the crack. The rock is horrid, place as much gear as possible and don't pull too hard on the rock. Belay off the tree. When you get to the top of this pitch you will be on the same ledge system as the tower.(60' 5.8 PG13)

Walk/scramble right to the tower. When looking from the saddle, the route is on the right(east) face. Set an anchor in a crack near the base of the route.
Pitch 3:From the belay walk a few feet right to a drilled pin. Clip the pin and get as high in your aiders as possible and hammer some iron. Don't mess up this first placement or you'll land on the ledge below. Nail up the crack to two more fixed pins and a fun free move onto the summit.(70' 5.6, A2+)

Descent:Rappel the route.

Protection

A single set of cams to new #4 camalot, stoppers, runners, selection of knifeblades, lost arrows and angles, and 2 ropes, cord or webbing to leave on anchors and trees. This might go clean with lowe balls and HB offsets but most likely it needs a few more pins first.

Photos

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