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Routes in Block Top Tower

Block Top T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: 10-12-85 by Greg Doubek, Bill Ellwood and Bryan Ferguson
Page Views: 4,451 total, 38/month
Shared By: Bryan Ferguson on Apr 28, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Steep crack climbing including free climbing and aid on big Friends stacked with wooden blocks (blocks were stashed at base). All likely would go free.

Location

Find the prominent crack that splits the North face of Block Top Tower. Descend the route.

Protection

Old style buttonhead bolts were placed on chimney pitch (pitch three) and belays, These should be replaced if they have not been already. Lots of big friends. We used home made friends (thanks to Greg) and big tri-cams stacked with blocks.
OK, south side, we thought that would be harder. Kudos to the Wideboyz and Crusher, et al on the project. May 1, 2012
Blocktop is split, north to south, by one crack. There are two routes, the original route takes the north side. Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall and I went up the south side (not the original route). There was some misunderstanding over this. I had heard this south side route had not been freed and might be very hard. This got the wideboyz all excited. Turns out it was established a decade ago or so, and goes free. The wideboyz reckoned maybe 5.10++. I jumared much of the way, partly to save time (brisk November day), partly because it was damn hard! think I got my original information all wrong, and it was the original route that was (is?) not free.

The north side, original route, I have not done and know nothing about. I have heard nothing from Stevie about climbing Blocktop. One thing's for sure, whichever side you pick, this makes for a hard-earned tower tick. Apr 29, 2012
As in same crack, but opposite side of the tower. Completely different route. Apr 28, 2012
Meaning the crux is the first pitch? Just very curious as I led the wide pitch on aid until I could squeeze in. The moves out of aiders were wicked OW and sqeeze chimney that very nearly exceeded my limits - it was a climb or die (not really, but felt like it) sort of thing for me. Apr 27, 2012
Pretty sure they established the analog crack with Crusher, though i could be wrong. Apr 26, 2012
These fellas found it far easier:
wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/… Apr 25, 2012
Patrick, do say more. We knew it would go free when we did the FA. Would like to know more about the FFA. Sep 8, 2011
FFA: Stevie Haston (5.12)

Hardest OW desert tower?! Mar 27, 2010