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Blue In Green

5.6, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 2 from 35 votes
FA: Romain Wacziarg, April 27, 2008
California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Fortress > Central Gully
Warning Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Start to the right of the "Footprints" anchor, up slabs with 3 bolts and pass a prominent pine tree to its right. A #2 Camalot can be useful below the tree, and you can also sling the tree for added protection. A steep move (5.6) leads to easier climbing. Stay left at the top to exit directly onto Lunch Ledge. This is a varied pitch with interesting moves. It is a much better (and easier) way to access Lunch Ledge than ascending Snickerdoodle and rapping to the ledge.

Direct start variation: start in a gully about 10 yards to the right of the base of Footprints. Small gear and a bolt protect some low-fifth class moves to the start of the original route. This variation avoids the need to climb Footprints first. With this variation, the route is about 190 feet long.

WARNING: You cannot descend with one rappel (with a 60 meter rope) from Lunch Ledge to the base of Blue in Green. It is best to descent by rapping the gully to the right of Snickerdoodle, and then walk down to the anchors at the top of Footprints for the final rappel off the crag.

Location

This route links the top of "Footprints" with the ledge at the base of "Rational Expectations" and "Magali's Arete".

Protection

6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor (an additional bolt for the direct start). Optional #2 Camalot and a sling for the tree.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Patty Fienup climbs the delicate slab on the first half of Blue & Green, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.
[Hide Photo] Patty Fienup climbs the delicate slab on the first half of Blue & Green, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.
Great day on The Blue and Green
[Hide Photo] Great day on The Blue and Green
April 25, 2008 - Bolting "Blue in Green". The climb follows the line of the rope.<br>
Photo by Alain Delmas.
[Hide Photo] April 25, 2008 - Bolting "Blue in Green". The climb follows the line of the rope. Photo by Alain Delmas.
Ascending "Blue in green"
[Hide Photo] Ascending "Blue in green"
Alex Barnett leading Blue In Green
[Hide Photo] Alex Barnett leading Blue In Green
Alex Barnett nears the top of Blue In Green
[Hide Photo] Alex Barnett nears the top of Blue In Green
Patty Fienup climbs through blocks near the top of Blue & Green, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.
[Hide Photo] Patty Fienup climbs through blocks near the top of Blue & Green, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] I finally led this route yesterday, and I have to take my hat off to my friend Romain. What was originally envisioned as merely an approach pitch to other routes has proven to be a very worthy addition to the Fortress. This route is surprisingly sustained and boasts quality rock. Sep 24, 2008
[Hide Comment] Its possible to link this route with Footprints with a 70m rope I had about 20' of rope to spare. Jul 16, 2009
John Knight
Sedona
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route yesterday w/Frank & Kelly. After reading some of the comments and looking at the topo, I was ready to give this zero stars. However, after climbing it, I was pleasantly surprised. I give it 2 stars! While it is possible to climb this and not clip any bolts (keep in mind it is also possible to solo 5.12), a new 5.6 leader will certainly appreciate the mix of bolts and trad protection. It is also quite reasonable to leave the rack in your car and only bring quick draws.
Frank leading
Jan 19, 2011
Mark Fletcher
Clovis, CA
[Hide Comment] This is an excellent climb. I used an old-style 3.0 Camalot in a crack instead of slinging the tree. Lunch Ledge is a fantastic place to hang out. Jan 13, 2014
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
[Hide Comment] It is very easy to combine this route and any of the routes above it into one single pitch. In fact that's a better way to climb Mailgia's Arete. Jun 2, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Pitch length is about 40m, perhaps a little more. Apr 3, 2017
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] linked Footprints and Blue In Green using a 70 with also about 20 ft to spare. then up Rat Exp, then Seven. brought Purple and Red LinkCams plus a BD Yellow #2. used each at one time or another up the four pitches to the summit Mar 17, 2019
Marshall Phan
Sylmar, CA
[Hide Comment] Can confirm that parties can use a 70m rope to rappel from. Also the first bolt is like 30 ft off up and thus not visible (or maybe I missed it?). Not like it matters too much because I protected it with a 2" cam (or you can sling the tree) and it's very mellow 5.6 climbing. Jun 15, 2019