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Routes in Alisters Cave

Diary of a Dope Fiend V8 7B
Sex Magician V7 7A+
Sex Magician Sit Start V8 7B
Type: Boulder
FA: Robert Miramontes
Page Views: 639 total, 5/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Apr 26, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the cave at a jug and move out over the roof to the regular start.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

RTM
RTM  
That sit was such a rotting mess when I scoped it out. There was a sloping chunk that I kept rubbing my hand on and grains were just showering off of it endlessly. The only thing that motivated me to keep trying to clean it was that it was sooooo steep! I also did another nice low start below the crux of Sex Magician. Starts at some nice huecos and busts a huge campus-like move straight into the crux of SM - called that one Man's Right to Imagination and to Insanity (v5ish) Somehow, because of the way you link into SM crux, it makes that crux easier. Sep 18, 2013
Can't remember but we may of done this low start BITD (but I can't remember, so it's yours Rob), I know Croft finished by soloing up the crack at the end. Anyway, I think for me SM is a harder traverse than the Dope F. I'd flop the rating, SM V8 and DF - V7 although I wouldn't argue V9 for both.

The DF is more stretched out, move wise and the crux of the SM is very scrunched up, so it might be that I'm 6'2" and that's why I find one harder than the other.

Also, people need to realize how bad the quality of rock was on this things, I imagine it's pretty good now. But we were breaking stuff off and cratering onto the slab on a regular basis.

We always had at lest a couple of pads if not more. I also heard Fred N, did some hard stuff in the cave. Some projects are still there I think...

It sure is a cool local, and I hope people treat it with respect,,,, Sep 17, 2013