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Routes in Coal Wash

Joe and His Dog - His Dog Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Mirage Tower - Make Coal Wash Great Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Mueller Tower - Hurry the F Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twin Priest Tower - Act of Contrition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter . April 23 2008
Page Views: 1,471 total · 12/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Starts up a groove that has rather poor rock on the NW side of the Tower. A cleaner and easier looking first pitch was seen when the FA party rapped off and was climbed by the second ascent party. These will be both shown on a photo of the tower.

Original start P1) Climb the groove past two bolts to the shoulder area below the twin towers to double anchors on the left side of the ledge. 100' 5.8 C1.

P1A) An easier and safer first pitch is located on the north side. Scramble under a chockstone to a 5.10 or C1 finger crack that widens to an offwidth and then a 5.8 chimney capped by a small roof. Scramble easily to the anchor after pulling over the roof.

P2) Climb intermittent cracks in the center of the rock leading up to the gap between the two towers. 70' 5.8 C1.

P3) Follow about 4 to 5 drilled angles to a ramp leading to the right edge, then two more angles to a fine summit and register in cairn. 70' 5.8 C1.

Rap the route. From the shoulder rap straight down from the anchors.

Location

From the junction of the North Coal Wash Road and the Devils Racetrack, drive a few miles to the base of the very obvious tower. From here it is a short 10 minute walk to the foot of the tower. There is a campsite with a small fire ring just before a nasty drop in the road before reaching the tower.

Protection

Normal desert rack of cams and stoppers. One 60m rope
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Well Done Andrew and your mate. I keep watch from the UK and so pleased that there are still climbers out there that enjoy the pure adventure of these remote towers. Stick at it lads.. All the Very Best .. Paul Ross. Oct 13, 2015
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 C1
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8 C1
Another adventurous Paul Ross route where I can't really argue with the 5.8 C1 rating, but the modest grade comes nowhere near describing the reality of the experience. We were the second entry in the register.

We tried the original first pitch, and bailed on it after my partner took a big fall trying to clip the first bolt when a fairly substantial ledge feature blew off. How on earth did that bolt get drilled? Impressive.

We climbed the suggested alternate first pitch instead, and it was good quality 5.8 C1 climbing that we freed on TR at 5.10. Definitely recommended since the original first pitch has some of the worst rock i've ever seen in the desert. No bolts were needed on this pitch.

The third pitch is exciting - two very spicy aid to free transitions and interesting free climbing with questionable gear. Don't take this pitch lightly.

A big piece or two is useful on the first pitch - i placed an old style 4 and 5 camalot. Other than that, a double set of cams from green alien up to 3 camalot and a set of stoppers(i placed way more of these than i usually do in the desert) works well.

You can rap from the summit down to the anchors on top of P1 with a single 70 meter rope. Anything shorter and you'll need to do three rappels. Oct 13, 2015