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Routes in Layer Cake

Chillax S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cosmic Space Dust Lazers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dude, It's Classic! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intimidator S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knuckle Dragger S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ledgarithm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stolen Thunder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Christian Knight and Bret Crapo
Page Views: 1,869 total, 16/month
Shared By: Christian Knight on Apr 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Pull the roof to the left of Ledgarithm's third pitch (about 5.7). The first bolt is straight above the belay about 8 feet (all of the bolts are dark powder-coated grey). Then the route goes up about 8 feet more to the roof on the left. It looks hard but it's solid rock and there are great holds.

The second pitch follows the last pitch of Ledgarithm for three bolts and then moves right out over the steep terrain that is incredibly sandy and dirty. The climbing is quite sustained but well protected.

Location

Climb the first 2 pitches of Ledgarithm then move left for the third pitch and right for the fourth pitch as a variation.

Descent

Walk off north (recommended), or rappel the route with a single rope.

Protection

Pitch One: 5 bolts to ring anchors.
Pitch Two: 12 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

  • I would recommend bringing a few longer quickdraws or some slings for this route to cut down on rope drag. If your runners aren't long enough the rope will drag against the lips of the roofs.

Photos

Finished off the free solo with this route. Didn't get to a point where I felt there was a definite crux but the rock seemed a bit cleaner than the lower pitches! And if I had been leading with a rope then I would give it a PG13 rating - well protected! Jul 14, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This is definitely the way to finish the route. Really cool moves over the roof. It's not hard at all, you just need to commit. You can't see either of the first two bolts from the belay, but they're definitely there. May 7, 2008