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Dynamite Crack

5.6, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 69 votes
FA: Bill Brow, Jim Brow, 1974
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Black Rose

Description

A nice gear route up a slabby face with plenty of hand and footholds. This route was first done decades ago and originally went to the top of the slab, but with the addition of chain anchors it is unlikely many people will climb the last ten feet since a walkoff/downclimb is required.

On the right slab of the Black Rose area, start about 5 feet to the right of the left edge of the slab area. Find a shallow, round dynamite hole and start up. Follow the small crack system more-or-less straight up to the chain anchors.

Location

Just to the right of the “hole” between the two Black Rose slabs.

Protection

Small to medium nuts, a small cam or two, chain anchors (or go to the top and belay from there).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1 Yuji Feet 5.11c<br> 2 [[Black Rose]]106053868 5.10d<br> 3 [[105742061]] 5.10a<br> 4 [[106144464]] 5.11b<br> 5 [[106149202]] 5.9<br> 6 [[106149198]] 5.6<br> 7 [[105741695]] 5.10a<br> 8 [[105742088]] 5.12a<br> 9 [[105876723]] 5.6<br> 9a [[105876723]] 5.6
[Hide Photo] 1 Yuji Feet 5.11c 2 Black Rose 5.10d 3 A Rose is a Rose 5.10a 4 Black Magic Woman 5.11b 5 Attention K-Mart Shoppers 5.9 6 Dynamite Crack 5.6 7 Pink Canoe 5.10a 8 Fat Hippos 5.12a 9 Tip-A-Ca…
Another go on the dynamite Crack. (Iphone 4)
[Hide Photo] Another go on the dynamite Crack. (Iphone 4)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Well worth it. But I wish I had brought nuts (The gear, not the anatomy)! Go with nuts not cams. May 21, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Pocatello, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. I've taken beginners on this thing a few times and they all could do it and enjoyed it. As crisco said, don't forget to take your nuts. Jul 30, 2008
Garret Nuzzo Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun, but has a kind of alpine feel with how much loose rock there is in the cracks. Make sure your belayer has a helmet and doesn't stand right below you. Mar 7, 2014
Thomas Holmes
Spanish Fork
 
[Hide Comment] This route is pretty clean these days. Very easy and good climbing with thought provoking gear. If it were sport, it would see a ton of traffic. Jun 23, 2017
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.6
[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.6's in the canyon. It's an excellent route for newbies as it has probably the easiest approach in the canyon and is fun the whole way up. Plus since RC lacks many trad climbers I don't think I've ever seen anyone else on this, whereas if it was bolted people would climb the heck out of it. I placed one yellow metolius to prevent zippering up, and then only used the small half of a set of nuts for the rest. Sep 3, 2018
John Sanders
Edinburgh, GB
 
[Hide Comment] great little Trad climb and bomber gear - easy for the grade, and I only had cams - no problem May 4, 2019
Daniel Maynes
Provo, UT
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Fun quick warm up for other climbs in the area. Would be a good first lead for someone new to trad. Everywhere you need a hold there is one. Aug 19, 2019